It’s more of an issue with the voltage rails & ground pins shorting to the signal pins. The voltage rails would be largely unaffected, but you don’t want the influence of 24VDC bleeding into your signal lines.
With the Hicap disconnected from everything, measure between the signal pins & all the other pins on the 5 pin socket using a DMM - they should be completely open circuit.
Regards
Neil.
Hi Alley Cat,
I’m not sure exactly what the substance is, but I think it’s on the surface of the plastic rather than the material breaking down.
Certainly not common, only seen a few examples.
Regards
Neil.
Thanks, unusual, I may have to take another look, assumed it was just affecting the plastic not the DIN connections. I seem to recall trying to clean the plastic ages ago with isopropyl alcohol but the discolourtion remains on some.
Thanks for your reply @NeilS. Seems like no issues on that test.
I should know more this week on where things stand with the two HI-CAPS and SNAXO units. I’ll be sure to update this thread with findings.
Related - is there an official source online where I can source SNAIC cables, preamp shorting pins/caps, etc?
Any Naim dealer can supply the correct (and genuine) Naim SNAICs and link plugs here. Some also have online shops for these small accessories as well.
I would still recommend replacing all the DIN sockets that exhibit the corrosion as you are experiencing two issues with the system.
Let’s hope your guy can get to the bottom of it.
Regards
Neil.
Neil
May I ask if you are still able to service SBL PAXOs - one of mine seems to have a loose joint for the incoming speaker plug and the socket wobbles.
Again can an old chrome bumper NAXO be serviced - I took a secondhand one with my new SBLs in the late 90’s as I preferred thre sound to the contemporary olive SNAXO.
I had always assumed the NAXO was tailored for SBLs but from the forum I’ve read it may have been configured for Linn Saras - is a pic or serial number helpful in determining if it was ever intended for SBLs?
Apologies to EBWhite for deviating from the original question.
Hi AC,
I’m unsure of the availability of parts to actually replace in PAXOs, but we can certainly fix your issue which sounds like a dry solder joint. If you know someone who is handy with a soldering iron, it’s an easy fix with no need to separate the PCB from the case.
Naxos can still be serviced yes.
If you are lucky the PCB in your naxo may have SBL or Sara written on it. I could check if it has any returns history by the serial number. We may have noted what it was configured as.
If you decide to get it serviced by us, tell us what you are using it with and we will ensure it’s spot on.
Regards
Neil.
Thanks Neil - I’ll find the sreial number for you. Haven’t seen an SBL or Sara on the PCB unless it’s on the underside!
I’d assumed the PAXO board would need to be removed from the case - it seems to be held in with glue/sealant - assume that was normal.
Yes, that’s normal. You can access the solder side by removing the crossover from the speaker cabinet.
The speaker socket will need to be supported while soldering it with something other than your finger - it gets very hot, very quickly!
Regards
Neil.
Many thanks.
NAXO 2-4 serial number below:
I guess that puts the NAXO at around 1988 manufacture date.
The SBLs are MK II purchased in 1998 from memory.
Assume using the newer DIN interconnects with the collars is ok, and that it is ok using an olive HICAP with the CB NAXO.
Hi AC,
No returns history I’m afraid, internals look original too. Best get it serviced & verified it is set up for SBLs.
Olive + chrome bumper = fine.
Lock ring interconnects + latching sockets = fine.
Regards
Neil.
Thanks Neil - appreciate you taking time to check.
Is it simply pot positions that differ or something more fundamental?
Whole system sounding excellent tonight, but servicing the NAXO sounds in order, alternative clearly be getting a new SNAXO configured for the SBLs.
Not sure on that one off the top of my head, they may be some component changes too.
I’ll have to check with our resident XO man!
Regards
Neil.
Hi again @NeilS,
So I had an expert (Electrical Engineer/HiFi Repair for decades) look at the two HI-CAP power units along with the SNAXO active crossover.
Through detailed testing on both HI-CAP units, neither were found to have any issue! And the buzzing sound I reported was not there with his testing, using the same cables, all same “control variables” kept as I was testing in my loft.
On to the SNAXO, it was wired factory original, so my hookup diagram posted in this thread and all details surrounding connections have been correct.
Based on the above findings, it looks like something is amiss with the NA NBL speakers themselves, as the amplifiers (x3) all work perfectly when I tested just Pre + 1 x HICAP -> each amplifier -> non-Naim speakers. The sound was amazing, spatial, loved it.
Are there any known issues with the NA NBL speakers that I can review and determine perhaps?
Thank you Neil. Really scratching my head on this one.
Do you have the passive crossovers for the NBLs? You could try running them passively with one or each of the NAP250s. If all is oK there then you could rule out the speakers.
As Richards says, ruling the speakers out as the cause is your best bet. The most common issue with NBLs is probably blown tweeters, but that would be very obvious.
A Snaxo will be much cheaper to ship to Naim for repair!
Regards
Neil.
Hi @Richard.Dane, I do not have the passive crossovers for the NBL’s (externally), any chance they’re hiding inside the speakers somehow during storage/a past move?
Are they small enough that they might have been mounted in the wall wiring at a previous installation? Not sure what they look like.
All I have on the back are the three separate low/mid/high inputs.
And @NeilS, do you know where I can find replacement “o-ring” material for the NBL’s that keeps the speaker cloth grilles attached? The current material is very old/cracking.
The passive crossovers a big black boxes with cabling that attach to the back of the speaker.
IIRC, the grilles just used round section rubber with the ends glued together.
Where can I source this “round section rubber” any leads would be super appreciated @Richard.Dane.
Nope never saw/don’t have the passive crossovers.
