Banana SOCKETS on naim speakers. (DBL)

Hello all, just need some help with updating tweeters on my DBL’s.

I would like to try the new replacements for the scanspeak original D2010/851100, (called D2010/852100) and wish to make new leads and sockets in order to make the whole process reversible.

I just need to source the banana sockets naim use on the DBL’s and I think they may be a standard RS components product. There are many by Hirschmann and Shutzinger but can’t tell which ones they may be. I was hoping @NeilS could have a look and possibly get back to me. They are probably different to the ones used on SL2 tweeters as those are mounted onto the metal tweeter arms but all the sockets on the DBL’s are mounted to the rear wood box so they may be different or have a longer threaded shaft. I have spare tweeter plates and have seen the difference in where the new version has the terminals, just need the part detail for the banana sockets. I want to try this as it may be a potential way to keep the speakers going in the event of a tweeter failure. Checking the forum, I can see that someone has successfully done it with SL2"s.

Thanks in advance!

Mario.

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I have Chord banana plugs terminating both ends of the NACA5 speaker cable between a Nait 50 and Falcon LS3/5As. They fit perfectly, and do the job.

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Thanks Graham, but im after the SOCKETS that naim use on the back of the speaker not the plug. The female banana socket that you plug the cables into. Thanks.

I see, sorry!

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Highly likely, but @NeilS will probably know… :thinking:

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They are the same sockets on all Naim speakers (excluding the Ovator range).
Hirschmann brand from the BIL30 range.

Regards
Neil.

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Neil, thank you, as always, extreamly helpful.

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Hello Mario,
I also have DBLs and yesterday got a new D2010/852100, not that my old ones are not working, but wanted to experiment. Unfortunately the tweeter sounded worse, even my wife did hear it , was so much worse, so i removed it immediately. I mean if the gap was small i would give it few days to break in, but was not the case. If you have no way of getting the original ones, you can experiment and put some weight (the new one are lighter , like 170grams less in weigh. As they are plastic I would put some weight as a shim from brass, you need like 70mm internal diameter/ 97mm external and 6mm thickness to get the weight. At the terminal area you need to peel off some metal , they are 78 mm so 80mm would do. I think that will bring the sound quality back, but did not test it. Good Luck!!!

Were the new tweeters run in? In my experience, when the Scanspeaks are brand new they can sound a bit crispy and closed in and can take a few days of running in before they sound as they ought to. I had to remind myself of this recently when I replaced the tweeters on my SL2s - initially I thought I’d messed something up somewhere! If you didn’t already do it, I would leave them to run in on some music for a few days before passing any proper judgement.

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Hello @Mario, I wander did you manage to test them, did you like the new sound ?
Thanks!
BBK

Hi BBK, sorry I have not done the swap, still have to get all the bits, in the end I just kept enjoying the music with the originals. Some people have tried and the word is that they need longer to burn in, but in the end, they are better.

Great, keep us posted. I want to try D2104/712000 eventually, i think DBLs deserve to have the best dome available, would need some additional work on the fitting and XO though, but that’s imminent given the end time of the mids and think 12MU/4731T00 will be the one to replace them.

Hi Mario, I wander if you had the time to swap them?