Hi all,
I have in the past had a new plinth and some minor upgrades done to my LP12, which is soon to have some more major upgrades.. I still have the old black ash plinth. I was thinking it might be fun to build a second LP12 using the old plinth to use in our second system. Has anyone done anything like this?
Many thanks
Been done to death many times. 
It would be fun but to be fair it will cost you a lot more than buying one ready built up even with used parts.
I suppose slightly different experience but years ago I bought an LP12 from the local free ads for 135.00 with an LVX on it .
I had a great time stripping down locating spares including a Valhalla kit etc. I had my other new purchase LP12 with Ittok etc and I found the whole process of rebuilding an LP12 fascinating and very worthwhile in terms of understanding the LP12 itself
Also my other LP12 provided a good reference point to a degree. The biggest lesson I learned was spring adjustment and arm cable dressing.
Good luck and go for it.
Yes, twice. Both of my LP12s started with a plinth of my liking. This is how they look nowadays:
This was done back in the days when StackAudio was still selling Serene parts, which were reasonably priced and outperformed everything out there, including Linn’s absurdly priced upgrades. But there is still Vinyl Passion and LP12 Bits, and eBay if you are patient enough. I would also strongly recommend to toss the springs in favor of the Taika Gel Bushings, which will not only make the deck easier to put together, but easier to use and sound better too.
Word of caution, do not listen to those who have never even taken the base board off. They are easy to identify as they will try to discourage you from embarking on the project in every way they can. Also, they are always bragging about how smart they are for overpaying their dealers for such work. In reality that’s about 9 out of 10 people here, so maybe you are asking the question in the wrong cyber space.
My LP12 was bought as Frankenstein’d, to a level that even the outer platter is of third party, only the plinth, top plate and motor (and screws, nuts) are original. I rebuilt mind from scratch through learning from Peter’s setup guide and bought all genuine parts. Now I got the T-Bar, the jig and kinky tool to help my friends build from scratch as well. LP12 is quite interesting and a smart design, sounds top with minimal parts – just like good old vintage cameras take great photos.
It’s great you learn through building one and you don’t need any dealers to service your deck anymore.
+1 The days of buying used parts cheap and assembling pretty much anything yourself are long gone!
Between my 1980 LP12 and 2025, all I have left is the dust cover.
Linn dealers have become rare in my area. With each new development, I have installed the upgrades myself. I have all the necessary equipment and tools to assemble and adjust my LP12. To master the LP12, it is useful to be well informed and to have the right workbench, T-bar, and a torque key, particularly for tightening the carousel bearing.
For interest, do you know if the karousel torque recommendation is to prevent damage, or for sound quality optimisation?
The torque setting from Linn on installation is 3.5N.m 
It’s actually 3.4Nm but close enough.
Yes, but any idea why?
Pardon.
Step #4
Between 3.5 and 3.2 Nm, I didn’t notice any difference in the music. For the past four years, my Karousel has been set to 3.2 Nm with my Wera key.
The Karousel requires a running-in period (300/400 hours) to reach its full potential. The improvement in the music is remarkable!
It must be what Linn decided on I answered above.
Not interested in farting about the fairy dust.
Torque is at best only a rough approximation of the actual force applied by a screw to the objects it fixes together. The difference between 3.4 and 3.5Nm is irrelevant.
Exactly. According to the key manufacturer, calibrations can vary from -4 to +6%. The accuracy of the torque remains dependent on a tolerance range. A tightening torque set at 3.5 Mn can exert a real locking force of 3.8 Mn, or, depending on the case, a torque of 3.2 Mn can correspond to 3.5 Mn. The key is to stay close to 3.5 Mn.
The people who tweak tend to gain a lot of knowledge from actually doing things, I would be more dismissive of advise from those who haven’t even taken the cover off.
Probably the tightest a fixing can safety get without fear of damage or stripping the thread.
Unlikely, these are very low values we are talking here, you can get to the vicinity of 3 Mn by turning the socket with your bare hand. These settings do make an audible difference, I believe that Linn’s published value is an average of the torque setting that sounds best to them.
