Fremer’s other movie contributions are Animalympics (1980) and Felix the Cat: The Movie (1988).
1 Like
Ah, it’s that! I knew Tron movie.
This topic was automatically closed 60 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.
Thanks @Richard.Dane for reopening this.
I’ve made some progress… Received some brass discs and silicon nitride balls from away yonder. Meanwhile I refined the plans a little and finished renovating the thickness planer and table saw.
I’ve had some virgin American oak in my stack for years, a mixture of 6x1 and 8x1 (150-200x25mm). It’s nice timber to work with.
Gluing boards after running them through the jointer planer, thickness planer and table saw:
Some timbers like oak are susceptible to tear out when they pass through the thickness planer. I don’t have one of the clever new cutting heads with lots of blades, mine is the conventional three knife head. I picked up this is wide belt sander which is absolutely brilliant at doing a second thicknessing of wood after the planer, and sanding out the tear out chips.
Now it’s profiled through the thickness sander to 19mm thick. Five shelves and the strips on top will form legs and sides.
They are not yet trimmed to length, I’ll do that when back from holiday in a week or so. Meanwhile, I’ve been playing with the brass discs and silicon nitride balls per @Xanthe. The brass discs I bought were advertised at 25mm but delivered at 1" (25.4mm) which is a bit of a pain as the forstner bits I can find locally are all 25mm. So I’ll need to either force them in (good coupling!) or ream out the hole a little.
Anyway the hole will be like this one:
Note the little depression on the brass disc. @Xanthe I used your brilliant trick of a larger ball bearing and hammer! Very satisfying. Here’s the disc with a silicon nitride ball in situ:
4 Likes
Here are the plans, front view:
And side:
There will be a couple of triangle bits behind the records to provide more cross support.
The bottom shelf is tricky because I want to make it floating rather than fixed. The concrete floor under the carpet is not level so I need a way to adjust the six feet (which will be threaded rod ground to a point and turned through an embedded nut on the leg). Anyway the issue is access to the feet when it’s in place.
The idea is for the bottom shelf to be free enough to raise up (with nothing on it obviously) to adjust the feet, then lower it in place. I don’t really like it, I’d prefer it was fixed in place (not least to avoid it warping) so I might fix some pins or something through it at the sides.
Note, I’ve put two units at the bottom to achieve isolation from transformers and also to have the records at an easier height to access.
Happy holidays everyone!
Cheers, Ian
5 Likes
I’ll be following this with interest, thanks for the wip pictures. Thinking about making a new rack when my current project is completed.
Cheers,
Mark
1 Like
That’s because you have all of those things!
How did you make the ball stay on the brass?
Or did the ball flick off to the side when you hit it?
Did you make a clean smooth dent first time each time you hit it, or some that were a mess/asymmetrical?
Did the impact of the hammer bend the disc - was it still flat on the underside afterwards?
I just settled on putting one silicon nitride ball in a large nut for the moment under my ND5XS2 that’s on a sheet of 10mm toughened glass.
I can’t imagine that there will be much of any audible vibration of the ball in the large steel nut under a streamer?
I did get significant vibration of the much smaller silicon nitride balls in much smaller thinner brass nuts
(The other 6 Naim boxes are on dented brass stop ends. My stop ends are dish-like on one side with a 2mm wall around the perimeter).
Conclusion…do not use ‘science’ to design a support, use trial and error to determine what works best.
Except, forget trialing sorbothane, the thief of music dynamics.
It’s easy to do as I did about 30.
The disc has a recess already so just needs to be made bigger.
Place the disc on a flat metal surface, I used the drain cover in the street.
I used a few steel balls as they Dent once hit with a hammer, but you can use the same ball quite a few times, the brass cups don’t take much to open up and the ball bearing will if you don’t hit it straight try and fly away, so be careful and do it away from anything that might get damaged
Almost forgot after the Dent is complete just run the other side over a file to make flat, as the center will have protruded out slightly
Other than that it’s easy
4 Likes
I was not specially talking about myself….
I “used science” to design the ‘brass / silicon nitride / toughened glass’ support system and it worked really well first time.
2 Likes
That might perhaps have something to do with you understanding the science rather than just reading about it on a forum!
2 Likes
…my comment was a little tongue-in-cheek, honest!..except for the part about sorbothane.
J
I tapped the brass disc gently with a sharp point first then balanced the bearing on the resulting dent.
In my case the discs are flat. Two things helped:
1 sit it on a flat, heavy, hard surface. An anvil would be ideal but I don’t have one; I used a bit of railway rail that I have for a weight on glue joins etc.
2 I placed a bit of old cloth over the ball to stop it flying around the garage. A bit of bed sheet for example.
The one I have done so far came out well. I might try dropping something rather than banging it with the hammer. I think @Xanthe did that from a consistent height for example.
1 Like
This looks like a fantastic project. I wish I had your skills! My only question is why the design includes record storage and therefore adds mass? The simple answer might be lack of space, but otherwise I still believe light and rigid is optimum (even though I use wobbly Quadraspire!).
Thank you! I need record storage, plus I wanted to achieve isolation of transformers (rather than have one stack of components and two shelves of records). A bit of form over function if you will.
Cheers, Ian
2 Likes
I have 2 Quadraspire racks.
When you say ‘wobbly’, do you tension your Quadraspire rack up to the max, or leave the poles slightly less tight than they could be?
I seem to recall that some users believe that if they are too rigid it can make the rack wobble/transmit vibrations more than if it’s a wee bit less rigid??
I don’t think they wobble at audio frequencies JimDog and I always thought the wobble was by design. I doubt I would hear any difference if I tightened everything up tbh. I am not much of a tweaker really.