Interesting Jonners, thank you.
If it’s any help, I found my one-time DV 20x2 Low to be just the right side of neutral (ie. with a bit of warmth and lushness) in my previous Naim set. Perhaps this very nice model could be a good match for your Aro and Aria.
But this is away from Crifo’s thread…
No problem for me, as long as you give me your opinion on Adikt / Ittok 
Cheers Christopher_M, I value your advice, in fact I value any advice 
Even with that rug hanging off the stylus?
Ha ha! That pic waas taken before I got an RCM. No such problems these days…
All I can say is that I once compared my Linn (welded subchassis, serviced Valhalla, non-Cirkus), Ittok and DV 10x5 with a Linn Majik LP12. (At the time, the spec of the Majik was glued subchassis, on board psu, Cirkus, Project arm and Linn Adikt, optional lid [!] )
I prefered the Majik, which felt more involving. So I bought the Cirkus.
I understand the Adikt is made by Goldring, and that pointy bits on the top are are designed to offer perfect fuss-free alignment in the headshell on a Linn arm.
Was it something I said?
I had my first Ittok in 1980 supplied and installed with an Asak. Over the next couple of years moved on to an Asak T this was when I was a customer of the Sound Organisation in the Borough Market. At the same time they found a problem with the bearing, Linn exchanged my Ittok for a new one. Two years down the line another bearing problem was discovered when I went back for spring / grommets service. Again the arm was exchanged by Linn FOC.
That Ittok served me well till 2004 when I purchased an Aro which to be is the best arm to have on an LP12 only my opinion.
Regards,
Martin
I’ve used AT0C9, Dynavector 10x5 & 20x2L & a Benz Micro Ace L all to good effect on an Ittock big the best by a long chalk was the 20x2L.
I see a dark sounding Klyde is a great match with a bright-ish Ittok.
I am curious what you think of Krystal with Ittok if you decided to change.
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