CD555 how to change inputs

I am sure it used to be in the manual but I can’t see how to change the input selector from RCA to Din?

Somehow my CD555 has reverted to RCA input and I want it changing back to Din.

Help please?

Not sure about CD555 but on all the other players you just press and hold the display button for a few seconds. The options will then flash, select option and then hold the display button again. Also, I think you mean outputs.

Spot on Stephen, thank you, its been a while since I last had to do it.

Strangely halfway through an Eagles track last Sunday the CD 555 decided to switch inputs from Din to RCA, no idea why but I thought the unit had packed up and after 14 years of use was ready for a new transport.

Fortunately Wayne at Cymbiosis suggested I checked the inputs and lo and behold it was simply a matter of reprogramming the CD 555. A hefty repair bill has been saved, for now :grinning:


Might be time to change the batteries in your remote
Sometimes when the batteries get low on power the remote sends out phantom codes

Don’t wish to barge in on this thread but seeing its on inputs/outputs on the CD555

I’d like to know how one connects 2 555PS’s to the single CD555 head unit.

Um-2 into four? splitter block?

Thank you and sorry if its so obvious :roll_eyes:


You only use one burndy cable from each supply

Ah yes I sorta figured that but then I thought of 2X £7k units with only half being used
just seems over indulgent --but heyI suppose keeps Mr Bennet happy :smile:

Thank you HFFF


@Polarbear - FYI, PB mine had (past tense I hope!) a tendency to do this too a few years back, mainly hopping to both outputs IIRC - I couldn’t find a reason. Mine also has a slight volume dip at the beginning of each track which coincides with the track display going out (as I have Display ‘off’ i.e. it comes on and goes out).

If you are using a Flash remote, I’ve found it benefits from an overnight rest (batteries out) between battery changes. Mine had a ‘mad few days’ a while back, even after a battery change and an O/N rest somehow managed to re-set things.

With the Flash you need too allow the capacitor to fully discharge before changing to new batteries. This also means you need to adopt a technique where you cleanly and quickly snap in the last battery, otherwise the cap gets partially charged and it can either hang the remote or it does weird things. There’s a quick and dirty method to discharging the cap, but it’s probably not a standard recommendation and may be a bit beyond forum AUP. It was certainly a characterful device…

Interestingly, I don’t use the Naim Flash remote, I found it too unreliable. I use either, the original basic remote or the old fashioned finger method :slight_smile:

Strange - just checked mine and it had switched to DIN & Phono and was resistant to re-setting, the latter achieved only after a power-down.

I wonder if it can change on powering up - as I had a power cut a few days ago.

I cannot recollect what the default is - I would have thought DIN?

Talking of servicing a CD555 head unit I had this done by Salisbury about 3/5 years ago. Need to check the paperwork to be precise.
The lid closure mechanism packed up sot needed to be overhauld. It came back sounding better as well. Cost at that time was in the region of £600. Fair enough on an upmarket CD player.
Two power supplies are better than one but thats not a universal opinion.

Flash remotes are no longer repairable so thats it if it packs up. Shame as its a nice piece of kit. Always fun to hand it to someone unfamiliar with Naim. Careful not to drop it please!

It has been known to sometimes happen following a mains “event” of some kind or other.

@Richard.Dane, is there any other advice re: changing batteries for the Flash remote? Mine have just died and this is the first time I will have had to do this job. A search threw up this thread. Sorry to hijack it but it seems to have come to a natural end. Hope you don’t mind.

Graeme, yes, the Flash remote needs a bit of TLC when changing batteries. The problem is that if you don’t make a clean final connection with the last battery then there’s a small capacitor that partially charges and then hangs the remote. You then have to wait until the cap discharges before trying again (there’s a dirty way of doing this by shorting it, but probably best avoided just in case you damage the remote). The trick is to get all the batteries bar the last one into the remote, then with the last one make sure it’s cleanly snapped into place - easier said than done as there’s no wriggle room in the Flash battery compartment - a very tight fit indeed! Good luck!

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Thanks Richard. How long for capacitor to discharge?

Hard to say after so long. Best go and make a cup of tea, drink it and read the paper, then come back to it.

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Haha! :joy: Thank you Richard. What would we do without you?! :+1:


OK. Advice followed, all is well. Job done. Thanks again Richard. Time for that brew and more music now. :coffee::musical_score:


I love the Flash and will be very sad when it pops it’s clogs as they all eventually seem to do.

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