Have the exact opposite experience. I have not “listened” to them lived with both (and NDS) for longer periods.
The ND555 is WAY better then the above. With 2 555PS is a fantastic source, hard to beat, period.
IMHO.
//Jonas
Thanks again @Darkebear. As potentially their second best source this will pair nicely with the 552DR/500DR which are also their second best Pre/Power! A well balanced system awaits 
Already having a double Fraim stack and full SL loom the CD555 stands a great chance of survival in this upgrade heavy world!!
I wonder how many pairs of SBL’s have been treated this well?!!! I suspect that after everything has settled down and burnt in it maybe time to audition some replacements to get the best out of the electronics!
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@Darkebear I have just been looking at these Wireworld Matrix 2 blocks and they all seem to say they are ‘Star Wired’ is it possible you have an older version and they are now star wires or am I just misunderstanding what you are saying re the block and that is actually the one I should buy?! With anything I think its useful to get a starting point and you recommendation is good enough for me and at the price it will be the cheapest upgrade I have made!
I do have an early one of the v2 release, but usually ‘start-wired’ means the Earth connection - and I don’t really care how they do that as it does not (or rather should not) carry any dynamic current of the magnitude the L and N connections to mains are doing. If these latter L and N are also star-wired then it is definitely not what I use now with my version, which seems to have ‘bus-bar’ connections between each in sequence.
Most people want star-wired and it may do some things well but it was not what I wanted as I wanted to apply a sequence to the connections, as I find in my system it works well.
One project I have in future is to make my own block, but I’m inherently lazy once I’m enjoying what already works, so that is for some time ahead.
DB.
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@Darkebear thanks for the clarity. It seems maybe there is 2 versions as I found this comment while trawling the net to find out some more info…
‘I received my first new WW Matrix 2 power strips today. These are much improved over the previous model.
I am so impressed; the new ones are all black, fully shielded, and star wired. They include 3 new upgraded duplex receptacles (6 outlets total) that grip the power cord much better than the previous model.’
I suspect finding an older one will be difficult now. This post was from Jan 2013!
I suspect the new one will still be fine if they are three double-sockets wired in sequence as the thing is a rectangular bar.
In fact if they are pairs of dual-sockets linearly wired I’d find a way to use it still - try Pre and 555PS(A) into first and 555PS(D) into the next or end socket.
There are many adapters and this is one of the less expensive ones to try.
I know there are other power-strips friends have purchased that they find much better but they have different systems (passive) to me that require fewer outlets.
But I’m loath to advise on buying blind with things HiFi!
DB.
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@Darkebear ok, perfect! I have a starting point! I have a spare Powerline also so I am all set. I will test vs the wall sockets after a few months of everything settling/burning in. Will be interesting, but suspect that even the new version in the sequence you suggested will better the wall connections.
Silver metal sheath with black top connector sockets.
DB.
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Little update. CD555 with 2 power supplies has been up and running for almost 2 weeks and as indicated by @Darkebear the plug sequence makes a massive difference. Not sure I have it right yet. Both power supplies are new and the CD555 has been serviced so are still running in. Plug in sequence of where the block goes into the mains and on the block all make a difference from really thin and small soundstage to overblown! I can see why some people decided against the second PS as a few combinations were not great.
@Darkebear am I right in thinking Output 1 is digital and Output 2 is Analogue? I think thats correct as the PS on Output 1 controls the buttons (although Output 2 seems to control the Naim Logo light)
Yes.
The Analogue supply has lower current drawn from it, so takes a few seconds to go down - whereas the digital supply feeds a higher current and goes off quicker.
I usually try to turn then on or off within a second or two of each other. Turn off together but on with a second or two between pressing button to spread the switch-on surge current.
DB.
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Thanks for clarifying @Darkebear. Do you remember the plug sequence you used with the 552? You state above that you had the 552 into the first socket and A in second with D last. You also say in another comment that you had 2 empty sockets between A & D in your 552 setup.
I have the same silver wireworld matrix block that is not star wired (at least it does not say so on the block)
I just want to establish a baseline to return to albeit based on your experience but your suggestions above do seem to be the best so far. So far I have assumed you used socket 1 for 552, socket 2 for A, 3 empty, Socket 6 for D.
You have it correct - what I said before will be correct for what I found for me in my system as I then had it.
The 552 I think sounded best with it plugged-in first (nearest the mains-entry end first available socket) - then the next available socket for the A 555PS - then I found, by experiment, that the D 555PS last farther away.
You can tune-up the performance to taste - once you get to realize it is possible and are prepared to trust what you are hearing.
I also followed some concept I had on what was going on with current-loops and how power supplies actually work - they are very noisy and it did not on reflection surprise me that the largest transient current-flows nearest the HiFi may have impact on performance.
The S1 Pre then liked to use a free-socket farther-in than the 552 did, otherwise it sounded far too ‘bright’ in a bad way. Later after about a year run-in of the S1 Pre and its sound opened-out and really changed in a great way for the better, I found it liked to be in the next open socket in, so a gap of two empty sockets and then the S1Pre - then the same sequence as before for the 555.
I’m thinking it is about the inductance of the mains wiring in the block and finding the place where everything just does not cause one current spike onto another raising the noise voltage when the supplies cut-in to pull their charging current on the mains cycle. The S1 Pre has a massive transformer so it takes a shorter duration ‘bite’ at the mains to get its current at the top of the cycle, so there will be more current over a shorter duration - it will have different effects on the mains supply, so a slightly different requirement.
Experiment and find what works - play music and try another position of it until you find you are more interested in your music than the experiment and you have arrived.
DB.
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Is your CDS3 still there? How is the situation of your CDS3? Does it work fine and how about the condition?
Just sold it actually. Sad to let her go. Was in amazing condition. Played lovely. Was not quite as nice as the CD555 but the difference was not night and day and bear in mind I am using 2x 555DR’s!
Sorry to hear that. I am going to buy a CDS3 recently as well. But I found most on the market are old. How old was yours? Have you changed laser pick up?
My CDS3 is a 2004 model. Had the laser changed in 2016 - sounds superb.
Regards,
Lindsay
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Your laser didn’t work anymore? Or just think it’s time to change?
It was getting noisy.
What do you mean noisy? Skipping? Or the sound is not clear?