For those who own a Graham’s Hydra.
I just removed the cheap ABL schuko connector that came with the Hydra and replaced it for a Furutech FI-E38 (R) connector. I am super happy to report that this is a big step up in sound quality. I always, in my previous setup and current setup, had a slight harshness in the sound that I couldn’t place where it came from. I now found out it came from the Hydra’s schuko connector.
When I opened the ABL connector the copper wires were covered with tin soldering and the ground wire has a spade connector soldered to it.
I don’t know whether the tin soldering was causing the harsh sound or the cheap connector itself but right now the sound has way more texture and the flow of the music is so much better. It is less rushed but still has that awesome drive and PRaT that Naim is famous for. It just sounds less “stressed”.
I recommend everyone with a a Hydra to experiment with a better quality connector. I also tried a MonosAudio connector which was also already a lot better but I preferred the rhodium Furutech over the pure copper MonosAudio.
I changed the plug and IEC connectors on my Hydra. The IECs now provide a firm grip, although nothing as tight as a powerline. I can’t remember seeing any nasties when I did the plug and IECs, though. I do need to adjust a few cables, so I may take a look tomorrow.
Some cheapo ones off ebay ! Made plenty of leads up with them, no need to pay silly money. As always attention to detail is required plus a straight forward continuity test at the end to confim the quality of the job. Iecs were £7 each. UK bs1362 ( furatech copy) plug £15.
Did it all together. Four-headed hydra. Can’t say I heard any difference, but at least I know the bits I’ve touched are done properly. Had a lot of changes in my system since late September. Can’t pin it down to the hydra.
I don’t get it. A bunch of wires connected to each other. There are several GOOD power distribution units that aren’t a fire hazard and don’t do conditioning… Furutech e-TP66 G Power Distributor, GTO-D3 Plus NCF (R) Power Distributor, Cardas Nautilus is awesome
One shall not solder power cords that will be screwed down. A failure of the end device drawing too much current can melt and arc the solder. Using solder to tin a wire which will then be held by a pressure connector (i.e. screw, clip etc.) is very bad news since the solder will creep with time, increasing the resistance of the joint and creating a fire risk. In addition, if the solder wicks up into the insulation it will damage it, incidentally stiffening the wire.
My experiences, which I’ve posted extensively about in the Furutech thread, is that everytime I’ve eliminated a connection, weather it be an IEC male/female, outlet or plug, that was previously of some sort of cheap base metal to a pure copper base metal (in my case all Rhodium plated), there has been a reduction of harshness. So not all that surprised in your findings
I will say with all my playing around with power source upgrades, it was a real eye opener on just how much impact good power plays. It was rather shocking what changing some power cords, outlets, IEC’s, etc can really do.
Just cut off the standard IEC’s and replaced them for MonosAudio pure copper connectors. Another step up in dynamics, details, bass control and another layer of harshness removed.
