I noticed the range in my NARCOM 5 remote control had reduced a bit. On opening the battery compartment, I saw that the batteries were dated 2024. I changed these and the range was restored. I thought I’d check the other remotes. The remote supplied with the ND555 was fine, batteries dated 2031. The R-Com was working fine too, it lit up on movement and the range was good, but I thought I’d better check. Although the batteries were dated 2029, there was a slight degree of seepage on the negative terminal next to the spring in the bolt-on cover. I managed to clean it all up with a few cotton tipped buds and isopropyl alcohol.
I was lucky this time, but I thought it worth reminding others to check.
I have been meaning to check my Naim R-Com remote batteries for a while, you post encouraged me to actually do it and lo and behold March 2025, now changed out .
The batteries on an NDX2 remote only last 6 months here, so no danger. (Duracell lately). Similar lifespan for Sky Q.
The batteries on our SU remote are at least one year old and going strong. The remote will lose power before any leakage (as happened last time). It only gets loads of mute button presses, with occasional volume adjustments!
The batteries on our 252 remote are basically unused. They were changed, but probably 2 years old. That remote gets a “disp” press after each holiday to dim lights just checked and batteries are perfect.
Are people using “Amazon basics” batteries or what? We had a load of these, which SWMBO bought for Xmas tree remote control lights. They don’t last more than 2 months in our kitchen clock (AA), whereas more expensive batteries last 6 months.
A case of you get what you pay for. Binned a box full, as come next Xmas they would have been mainly dead.
The battery leaks can be avoided significantly by not using alkaline types.
I’ve used lithium for numbers of years and never had a leak …… but I still check from time to time.
Energiser Ultimate is my go-to battery
I have always used Duracell, which are alkaline. I need to buy more batteries for the R-Com, so I’ll give Energiser Ultimate a try. Thanks for the tip.
Like @Mike-B i use Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries in all my remotes. They actually last for years and years and don’t slowly loose power. A bit like Lithium Iron powertool batteries they don’t fade away, when they die it’s very sudden.
Was going to mention Enloops, especially in naim remotes. My ndx2 remote used to eat regular batteries, hence the move to rechargeables. I also use them in my CH controllers too ( I have 2 zones), but due to the lower battery voltage of even fully charged Enloops, one controller and receiver quickly throws up a “ low battery voltage ” alarm.
Are you using the white or black ones as I read on the Tado forum the white ones are better as they have a lower discharge rate so last longer and have a slightly higher load voltage so don’t set off the warnings. Apparently alkaline 1.5v batteries actually present 1.2v under load but the rechargeable even though it is 1.2v doesn’t drop under load.
I have 6x radiator therms and the batteries last about a year with the white eneloops.
High Self-Discharge vs. Low-Drain Stability
The Problem: Black Eneloop Pros are engineered for high-drain, rapid-burst devices (like camera flashes). They have a significantly higher self-discharge rate. [6, 9, 10]
The Impact: Smart radiator thermostats are low-drain devices that sleep most of the time, waking briefly to adjust a pin. Black batteries will waste a massive amount of their capacity simply sitting idle inside the thermostat. White Eneloops retain up to 70% of their charge even after 10 years of inactivity. [6]
Voltage Curve and “False” Low Battery Warnings
The Problem: Black Eneloop Pros suffer from a steeper voltage drop under low-drain conditions over time.
The Impact: Because tado° measures voltage under load to determine battery life, the discharge curve of the black Pro series can confuse the thermostat’s sensor. This leads to early false “low battery” notifications in the app long before the cell is actually empty. White Eneloops provide the precise, flat 1.2V discharge curve tado° programmed its firmware to recognize. [6, 7, 11]
I’ve been caught out with batteries in remotes a few times. The first sign that all is not well is as you say equipment not responding as well to commands. There are so many things in life that demand our attention. Batteries in remotes is something that isn’t even on my radar. Good to have a reminder then - thanks.
Having started this thread I thought I’d better make sure I’d checked all remotes. On the Narcom 5 upstairs I found evidence of some leakage on the battery tucked up inside the body of the remote. There is some corrosion on the spring. Does anyone know how to open a Narcom 5 to access the spring? Or do I just live with it?
Good call Clive
It’s easy to forget how long the batteries are in.
I check all mine once a year but as you say the date is no guarantee against a devastating leak.
Rechargeable Lithium batteries used in power tools stop suddenly because a chip that controls them cuts the power when they are nearly empty. This is because Li Ion batteries are damaged by being run until they die, so they are not allowed to reach that stage.
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just checked and batteries are perfect.
