Cleaning your stylus

(I know this has been discussed many times before - perhaps thinking specifically when fluid cleaners should be avoided).

Over the years have used Linn green paper (K9, now Krystal), Audio Technica vibrating cleaner, discwasher brush and fluid (fluid probably runied the AT cleaner brush) and AT stylus cleaner on AT cartridges.

Having recently acquired a Linn Krystal I was surprised to find a thread elsewhere indicating aluminium cantilever failure might be caused by cleaning solutions using fluid.

The Krystal seems to be quite a dust magnet, and I’m not convinced green paper is perfect.

I’ve seen some rather unusual solutions which are often quite cheap, amongst others:

Magic Eraser - dipping stylus up/down on a tiny piece

Watchmaker cleaning putty (Bergeon Rodico 6033 specifically) - again dip stylus into it and lift one or more times to remove residue

Silly putty - unusual polymer again stylus dipped in/out

Various polymer/gel products e.g. Onzow Zerodust

I would be interested in your experience with any of these.

I would be reluctant to use gel type solutions given the ‘naked’ Krystal construction, in particular concern that the ‘tape’ over the body might get impregnated with something.

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I’ve used MagicEraser and the “Green Stuff“ for years. Magic!

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Is it just another urban myth.

Not all fluids are the same, if you where thirsty it would be wise to avoid drinking acetone, but perfectly OK to drink water. The same applies to cleaning a stylus, I would probably avoid using acetone.

I’ve been using this for years without any problems.

Nagaoka manufacture styli and various other bits of hifi equipment. If their stylus cleaner caused damage, they’d have gone out of business years ago, due to all the compensation payments they’d have payed.

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I tend to agree, but elsewhere cantilever failure/corrosion has been attributed to fluids such as Lyra SPT.

Hi alley cat
Be warned NEVER use any fluid on the Krystal
I used Lyra spt as instructed and only ever applied it to the stylus while using a magnifying glass to ensure I only “touched” the diamond
My £1300 Krystal lasted just 300 hours
:rage:
I bought another one in the hope that linn would maybe give me some sort of compensation but they point blank refused to do anything all they said was it’s out of warranty
Still makes me angry
Cheers
Tony

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Never found the Linn green sheet much good. Now it’s Onzow or the DS Audio pad, and occasionally the buzzy AT thing. I tried the Nagaoka briefly (it was very effective) but stopped immediately I saw an eaten-through Krystal cantilever on another forum.

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DS Audio Cleaner is the only way to go. Good effective pad, in a nice metal case.

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It is. But at a fairly wow price. If I hadn’t been flush at the time…

But I’m glad to have it!

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I have gone from a Linn Asak (tracked nothing), Troika with the green stuff to a Micro-Benz SLR and now a Lyra Etna SL. All outstanding in their time and performance, especially the Etna. So it should at the price.
When the Micro-Benz arrived the late Derek Jenkins, LP12 set up expert, said drop the green stuff and use carefully a Clearaudio liquid brush/ fluid and a small slightly abrasive pad, dealer supplied.
This holds true for the Etna but I am not a fan of stylus cleaning at the best of times. I prefer to clean the LP with a carbon fibre brush running from outer to inner grooves which is the same way as the stylus travels and run it off on the LH side of the label. From label to LP rim is the wrong way IMO.
A small camera lens brush used from rear to front of the stylus should be enough to keep things clean. Use it when the PU arm is at rest but not locked into the safety clip. Keeps stress off the cantivever. I hardly ever gave the MB a deep clean in 10 years.
I once had a sneaky little hair wrapped around the cantilever of the Micro-Benz. Needed to track down a plastic tweezer which I got off the net. No metal near the cartridge magnet/s.
If I really want a used LP it goes through an RCM before I play it.
All that is a bit obsesive perhaps but an Etna rebuild currently is £4.5K.
Boron cantilevers tend to either shatter or still work OK if that’s any help.
Time to play a CD right now.

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Sadly it was mine :face_with_head_bandage:

@Derosa

Ouch! That was nasty. At least you alerted a lot of folks, so…thank you.

I hope you’ve had no more problems.

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From Linn Docs, Turntable Maintenance - “On the advice of the cartridge manufacturer, Lyra SPT can be used, as directed in the instructions, on Linn cartridges with solid boron cantilevers. It should not be used on any other Linn cartridges.”

What is the Kandid cantilever? I should know, but after two thirds of a bottle of No 3, I am uncertain…(hic)

DS Audio ST-50 for me.

Easy to use, seems to leave stylus completely clean.

Krystal user BTW.

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From the Linn website -
“Kandid uses the finest nude diamond Line Contact stylus and benefits from a ceramic boron cantilever for ultra low mass and extremely high rigidity.”
Krystal is the one with the aluminium cantilever.

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@catswhiskers

Thank you.
I think I threw away the bottle…but good to know.

I occasionally use some Audio Technica fluid on the AT637 but as a future Krystal owner I’d be scared to use it.
I’ll ask at Moorgate when I get the Krystal.

Current cartridge is a 10x5.

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A Lyra Skala user BTW

With the DS Audio ST-50 I figure $80 is a small price to pay for the proper tool cleaning a $5650 cartridge. I actually got it free, but wouldn’t hesitate to buy one. It’s very nicely done and works well. The leather bottom is a nice touch, allowing safe use if you already have a record on the platter.

I also use Clearaudio Diamond Cleaner.

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I used many types but this is what I use now.
Clean-it-653x277

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