This is quite common with the in rush current when switching on. Another reason for leaving on.
Yes, true. What would you characterise the ‘sputter’ and interruption (very brief) of music as when higher consuming appliances are turned on (and off for that matter)?
And I assume a dedicated mains will help sort this? You sound like you’re in the know but apologies if not.
No idea on that one sorry. 
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OK, could be, mine were 20 years old. I replaced with MK 2 years ago (which are also good) as the Crabtree were looking tired. I then replaced with the Click switched sockets above due to cosmetic reasons to match domestic circuit sockets and due to sticking power supply switches that meant I did not need to go back to the CU to switch off for maintenance and lightning storms. They also take 10mm easily.
I used Schneider for mine, unswitched of coures. Good quality plus can take 2x 6mm2 cables.
Did you have a Type C circuit breaker or B? If B, then you need C which is a slower break
It certainly can’t do any harm. Dedicated mains should give a better sound. Before we did ours, many years ago, turning on the lights would give a click over the speakers. I’ve never experienced an interruption to the music from switching on the cooker, and wonder if it might be worth getting your mains checked out.
Thanks for that. Something to do with trialling this passive in lieu of my 282. I do keep my system profile updated (I actually think it’s an important part of this forum) but bought a passive to trial.
Never once was an issue with my 282 / 2 x HCs. Perhaps there’s a delicacy with a passive and exposes the electric in a way that a powered pre won’t.
Absolute guesswork, I confess.
It’s not unheard of to trip your circuit if you turn on a couple of power supplies at the same time - e.g. your SC, that’s why a dedicated circuit recommends a type C breaker. Alternatively, leave a few seconds between turning them on. I think you are supposed to do that anyway, e.g. pre-amp, then PS’s then after a few seconds, the Amp
Yes, thanks for that, I do try and do that now. I’m more curious about the sound interruptions when other appliances are turned on/off, but as HH suggest I think an electrician is due. We live in (ironically) a converted electrical appliance shop.
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There can be a few reasons. A possible reason is that the switch/socket is arc’ing - particularly may happen in a kitchen or bathroom where moisture gets in. Simplest and a very cheap fix is to just change the switch/socket - probably only costs a fiver at most. If it doesn’t change the issue, then nothing really lost. Of course only change the switch if you are electrically competent.
What size type C circuit breakers (amperage) does everyone use? Or are recommended for optimum sound quality?
32amp type C is what Naim recommends.
Type B devices are designed to trip at fault currents of 3-5 times rated current (In). For example a 10A device will trip at 30-50A. Type C devices are designed to trip at 5-10 times In (50-100A for a 10A device).
Just curious, so whats the difference between a 50 Amp type B and a 32 Amp Type C given the above…both would trip at about the same Amperage, but wouldn’t the 50 Amp give the better SQ theoretically?
This diagram has been posted previously, but gives a good description of what is required, for the UK only.
No Idea, maybe one for Naim technical to comment on. They definitely specified 32amp type C to me when I phoned regarding it a few years ago.
I have a 50 amp type C on mine, and have had for over 20years. It’s been checked recently by the electricity distribution people when they installed our smart meters, so presumably it’s ok.
I am running a 32 amp dedicated breaker box with a cooker cable and separate earth cable straight into my G3 distribution block. Seems to be enough in my case. A cooker cable is somewhat easier to work with and seems to deliver enough current in my case. Often the issues with mains are more due to insufficient current to the area you are living in. I’m in a bit of a rural area outside a village and can certainly hear my system showing signs of poor supply at peak times during the day. 10 am - 5pm or very late evening is my listening-window and strangely Saturdays. There’s always the ‘rule of the weakest link’ sadly 
ATB Peter
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The circuit breaker is there to protect the conductor, so a thicker the cable, the higher current you can run through it without damaging it. I am not aware of any SQ issues but for me IMHO I would be inclined to go for the lower amperage so you are better protected in the event of an issue.
I have just checked and mine are also 50 Amp B MCB’s installed by the electrician 20 years ago. They have never tripped, I suppose because I have 4 separate runs one for each hifi component…