1- as you say, almost better to move the chair than the speakers with SL2s. IME, SL2s are ideal for near field listening.
2- room treatment is relatively cheap and you’d only need a couple of panels (say 1200mm x 600mm) on the RHS to dampen out things – or at least to see if these have a noticeable effect. Per other threads, while there is science behind installing these things, trial & error plays a big part too, as does personal preference and our own ears!
3- if the house is relatively new, you may find there’s insulation between floors which may assist re ceiling reflections et al. Also, some ceilings have concrete rather than wooden joists, partly (I understand) due to fire regs etc,.
Personally, I’d avoid trying to secure things to ceilings, as you never know what’s up there re fixing points, unless you lift the floor upstairs.
Would this cable work from the CU in a box on the outside wall along the outside of the wall to the point where it enters the listening room and connects to the socket?
If so, should it be installed in some kind of plastic or metal trunking?
Lapp 3 Core NYY-J Power Cable, 10mm², 59A, Black PVC Sheath, 1kV, 600V
RS Stock No.: 721-0699 Lapp Part No.: 15500603
From Lapp, this NYY-J cable is a widely-used power and control cable that is often found in domestic and commercial electrical wiring.
The cable is bare copper single core with PVC with a filling compounds over the core assembly. The PVC sheath is flame retardant and robust, allowing the cable to be used in dry, damp and wet interiors. NYY-J cable is also able very resistant to UV, and so is able to be used outdoors. Able to be installed in open air and underground, NYY-J cable presents a versatile power cable that should be used in where the risk of mechanical damage is unlikely.
• Flame-retardant according IEC 60332-1-2
• Above, below, flush and recess routing
• Operating temperature during installation: -5°C to +50°C • Operating temperature in a fixed installation: -40°C to +70°C
What you need is twin and earth (T&E) cable which contains two insulated 10mm cores, colour coded brown and blue, and a third core with no inner insulation for earth. These are all encased in an outer PVC insulation, usually grey or white:
I swopped all my MCB’s out recently and installed Type A RCBO’s for all the circuits so every circuit has it’s own RCD and it also provides additional protection from earth leakage current.
Older installs often have Type AC RCD’s in a split board with multiple circuits being protected by a single and separate RCD. You can also add an SPD to the main board and that protects the whole install from surges, I’m on overhead lines from DNO here and TT Earth arrangement so it’s better to protect than regret.
Yes - although having just seen behind that brown plasterboard, I’m pretty sure there are no gas pipes or electrical cables at skirting board level.
The gas pipe was taken all the way back above the coving.
And the new TV double socket comes in from the fuse on its right, which is fed from directly above iirc.
The skirting needs the diagonal pieces sawing off and then fitting into the gap.
It was previously nailed into the plaster with those long, thin nails and also with daubs of glue.
Would it be as good and easier to just glue it onto the brown, new plaster with something like No More Nails glue, or some other of the various types of glue I have?
Those are nails from a finishing nail gun Jim. Don’t worry about nailing, rather just break them off via metal fatigue and re fix using grip adhesive. Most of us prefer Pinkgrip. Just try to keep it away from your skin. It is a swine to get off once on.
Jim, one thing I might be concerned about is how well those mitred joints will fit. If they are not tight, they might be an area that you eye will always focus on when you sit down. I think I would be inclined to replace the whole length, albeit that may require at least one join, but will at least it will be fresh and clean, plus you can bind the two together on the reverse side say with a bracket and screws. With the skirting off, you could also insert a small piece on conduit to run your ethernet across to to the other side, then glue in the new skirting board.
These are the glues I can find so far in the garage.
The so called Seriously Strong Stuff might fix the gripper rods and underlay to the floor, and the Skirting Board to the plasterboard - although I only remember using it once years ago and iirc it seemed pretty weak when it had set…
I’m going to saw off the triangular ends of the mitred joints as they are longer than the gap.
We will not see the joins or the repaired carpet because there will be a TV stand over that space, which will probably remain there for many years.
As regards free cables being visible, my new set up will have far fewer of those than in my previous house, but I’m not concerned that some cables will be visible.
‘Pretty sure’ is not a good basis on which to proceed given that on the rare occasions when you are wrong the consequences can be bad. Whoever fixed the bit of skirting you removed presumably understood that as they don’t seem to have used nails on the end near the electrics.
1- remove nails & adhesive, trim the board and see how well it sits in the gap e.g. see how good the new plaster-line is and if the wall has a bow/protrusion (not unknown!). Ideally, the board should sit just within the existing line, so as to accommodate adhesive in behind it when re-fixing. From the pics, it looks like the plasterer has been your friend here and managed a nice wall-line for you?
n.b. if there is a slight hump in the wall ( a protruding/fulcrum point), you may have to think again. I’m with @GadgetMan, that I’d be inclined to investigate the ability to replace the whole length but respect the additional issues this could bring about vis breaking out corners/re-painting et al.
2- Something like Wickes ‘grab’ or instant adhesive should be suitable. You can use the thicker Gripfill/Pinkfill but from what I know (and having used it), it’s thicker, which may not be what you need here(?).
Assume you have a mastic gun?
3- apply adhesive liberally (one tube needed), either via dobs/wavy runs (not as pictured). Reason is that you want strong fixing along whole board, in case an eager carpet fitter knocks it.
4- As usual, finish the top edge using decorators’ caulk after the grip adhesive has cured. You may also be able to use this as filler in to the vertical joins, as I find it’s better than using the likes of Polyfilla which dries out and gaps re-emerge (they say it doesn’t shrink!).
, just the copper conductor
