I have a CDS3 and when I changed from a lavender lead to a Chord TA lead the audio became quiet and distorted. Changing back to the lavender or using phone output had no change to the distortion. I suspect that the thick unwieldy Chord cable might have twisted something so that there is a partial short circuit and would like to remove the sleeve to check. Can someone on here or from Naim give me instructions. I am in Spain with relatively zero dealer support and shipping back and forward to UK is a nightmare.
The mech is relatively new/unused so are there any suggestions about other causes?
Have you tried a different input on the preamp to rule out a problem there?
Yes, I have done that and the input is fine,
Hi Frank, hopefully you got my e-mail. I can’t see how any interconnect can twist anything internally because the sockets are fixed to the chassis.
You could be careful and slide out the cover to check if anything is amiss inside, however I would defer to @NeilS here to give instructions as it’s easy to muck up the tray suspension.
Thanks Richard, hopefullyNeilS can give some instructions
Good luck with sorting it out - seems a bit of a mystery.
Is the Burndy ring fully tightened.
Not sure but the lavender worked half an hour earlier!!
Have you tried turning it off and turning it back on again.
When it’s off reseat the Burndy connections.
The CDS3 cover cannot be removed with the transit bolts fitted & without these the unit cannot be turned upside down.
Start by removing the four small screws on the rear panel, the panel can then be removed (some blue tack or similar may help to pull it out).
Place the player on a bar stool or similar, so the four feet are overhanging. Remove all the feet & the earth bolt in the corner.
Then, with the unit facing you, holding the fascia, carefully withdraw the chassis a few inches toward you.
Open the player lid & you should be able to see the loose wires for the door switch, unplug the connector at the PCB behind the tray. Support the tray while doing this as the PCB is attached to the tray.
Once unplugged the chassis can be pulled all the way out.
Reassembly is the reverse of the above - just be careful to dress the door switch wires so they don’t get pinched by the door hinge.
The fascia to cover gap should be an even 2mm before tightening the feet etc.
Hope that helps!
This week I also had a problem with a Flash Remote that was stuck on Tuner and then partially lost the letter display. I tried the battery trick to no avail but I think that I have cured the problem by gently lifting two of the corners of the chip with a very fine hex key and then firmly replacing it. I didn’t remove the chip, just lifted a little and then pushed back. Must have cleaned the contacts and it now works perfectly.
Will post this on the Flash thread.
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