I’d be tempted to move the 2960 switch closer to your router and connect your other switch segments from that…that way you know you ar3 getting max benefit from switch managed IGMP snooping.
If necessary you can put a little switch closer to your Hi-Fi as well, including a little audiophile device should you wish… and if you did, it would be protected by the 2960 up stream.
Yes thats good, but it only tests for connectivity & not TIA & ISO conformance.
In wall socket wiring (I’ve found) can be sub-optimal. e.g. connected with no care to the twisted pair geometry. This will result in signal transfer anomalies such as poor near end crosstalk, return (reflection) loss and skew delay. This means the thru the wall section of cable fails to meet TIA/ISO standard & the result can be a fancy (expensive) Cat-7 pluged in the wall socket performing & sounding like a Cat-3
Connection of this patch cord made with Viablue cable and Telegartner connectors seems very easy. I do not know what may be wrong with that. Code color has been respected with 568B and there is a “click” which should assure that cable manager has crimped correctly. Anyway I’m not skilled about the problem behind their wrong connection so I understand your suggestion 
and the risk to not have a well certified cable. A certified CAT5e may be better of a CAT 7 crimped in the wrong way.
This is the LAN cable I wish to connect from the NDX2 to the wall socket.
Actually my concern is more about wall socket crimping.
No doubt.
I performed this bit of DIY on 5 in-wall Ethernet keystone jacks throughout our new home, one of which goes to my dedicated room. It wasn’t near as hard as I had initially thought, you just need the right tools. I didn’t use the first one below, though I know it’s a good one; I used the latter one used on the CableWholesale site. They’re available on Amazon and elsewhere for pretty cheap.
Thank you very much for your reply. Unfortunately I’m using BTicino series for wall sockets of my home and I’m forced to use the only rj45 socket available on the catalogue, Bticino N4279C6A.
Ah, I see. Well, it seems with a little patience you should still be able to achieve that without too much difficulty.
If you buy Ethernet cables from a decent commercial supplier (I tend to use Cable Monkey but there are plenty of others) they will be tested as a matter of course. Blue Jeans use their testing as a marketing thing, which is fair enough, and while they may seem relatively cheap compared to many (non-compliant) audiophile streaming cables, they are still about 10 times the price of your average certified cable.
It needs to be understood what testing level each of these cable makers (assemblers) use.
I fully expect all to test for continuity, this test is with an ethernet tester that shows each of the 8 conductors connects tto each end & to the correct pin.
BJC & others use a more advanced test, this is the one they use for marketing, it test each cable for TIA/ISO standards conformance. It checks that the cable meets the speed (MHz) & other specs for whatever category cable it’s intended to be. The test sheet procedure shows it passes (or fails) & shows the headroom dB that it exceeds the standard to achieve the pass.
That’s useful. I need to order some cables this week so I’ll give CM a go 
Which is why I suggested FS. Stuff I’ve used in data centers. Not “we don’t care” consumer quality, nor “audiophiles will be happy to pay this much” pricing.
You’d be surprised. I’ve had a cables which didn’t even pass that test, but not one of the pairs that would make it fail completely, so the average consumer wouldn’t even notice. They were cheap of Amazon.
I’m sure there are plenty of other reputable suppliers for this sort of cabling given how widely it’s used, but I’ve always found Cable Monkey to be reliable and they have been very helpful when I contacted them with a couple of non-standard requests in the past.
Cable Monkey claim that all their cables conform to ANSI/TIA 568 standards. I very much doubt they would survive as commercial suppliers if they didn’t.
Having said that I’ve never found Cat5e or Cat6 cables generally to be unreliable. Even the kinked uncertified piece of junk that’s been connecting to my iMac for the last 5 years has never dropped a single bit, and given the trivial data load of a music stream I don’t really think it’s something we need to worry too much about.
Thank you guys for all your replies!
Unfortunately I already bought 11m of Viablue EP-7 and it’s a pity to not use it. I should have asked before buying it.
I’ll crimp it at the wall socket at NDX2 side and I’ll use a wall hole at router side crimping a Telegartner RJ45 plug without wall socket.
I’ll connect the cable without its shield like a simple U/UTP and I’ll borrow a dedicated fluke tester to check it (A colleague at work have a dedicated fluke equipment to check Lan cable).
I’ll buy a proper patch cable without screen (U/UTP) like FS, Cable Monkey or BJ to connect the wall socket to NDX2.
My concern about the Viablue EP-7 is if using a S/STP like a U/UTP the screen can become an antenna and get a worst cable than my previous UTP cable made with aluminium conductors.
Exactly … and of course Ethernet at the speeds most consumers use and over typical lengths in the domestic environment is pretty robust … in fact I would say the characteristic for the home is basic continuity.
I have link quality counters on my home network, and over 10 years and billions and billions of frames over so called humble un shielded Cat 5e, some of which I have wired / crimped myself, I have not had one single frame error… I suspect that is better than the vast majority of computer hard disks.
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