Finally gone active

[Anil]

Hi Bruce,

By SL do you mean Super Line interconnect?

I already use the WitchHat hat pins from snaxo to the NAP250s and will investigate the supercap. Thanks for your thoughts.

Anil.

[anon4489532]

Before you go getting even more boxes, I’d really try to find a way to get the Snaxo away from the power supplies, and to get the Linn power supply off the preamp. The preamp and active crossover are the most sensitive parts of the system, and active systems are particularly sensitive to setup. Getting them properly separated will very likely make more difference than getting bigger and better power supplies. For sure you can pile it all up in a heap but you won’t be realising anything like its full potential.

[Simon-in-Suffolk]

Hi… I run actives in my studio, it passives in my Hi-Fi setup. There is no doubt in my opinion that actives are are more accurate… and are superb for production.
However because the system distortion is lower (I am not just talking harmonic) in active systems compared to passives, you are presented with more information that can be interfered with by your listening environment… and this can be come very noticeable, say with upper mids and bass frequencies below 200 Hz.
Therefore with a good active system you will almost certainly need room treatment of some description to attenuate reflections and phasing issues.
Low frequency phasing issues below 200 Hz can result in a light, or bright presentation…reflections in the upper mids can result up in hardening and resonance of upper mid energy… and with a cleaner signal through to the speakers this can become more apparent.

I do think fiddling with cables and other boxes, unless you are referring to a quality tone control or equalisation, is a fools errand… best get the room sorted and then tweak.
And yes DSP, contrary to some popular audiophile commentary, doesn’t fix these issues, it can however mitigate or reduce the side effects from them… great for casual listening… not if you want to get the best from the system… so like cables and boxes, use DSP once the room is sorted to then fine tune to personal taste.

[Anil]

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll see if I can move both the Radikal and SNAXK. I had no idea how sensitive the pre and crossover are.

A.

[BruceW]

Yes SuperLumina, but replacing the stock single cable from the 52 power supply that carries the signal to the SNAXO power supply. Hope that makes sense. I have not tried the WitchHat versions but the uplift of SL over stock was greater for example then switching to an SL interconnect over a HiLine on my source (NDS).

Bruce

Correction. It goes from the Supercap to the SNAXO not via the PS.

I don’t have my system in front of me but I think this is right!

[bluearcher]

Hi Anil, this is a very similar set-up to what I’m planning and wondered what connections went where for the pre-amp, amps, SNAXO, HiCap(s) and SBLs?
I have an NAC 32.5, 2x NAP 250, 2x HiCap and SNAXO 2-4. All chrome bumper except SNAXO. Speakers are SBL Mk. II.
Thanks

[suzywong]

Just to confirm that your SNAXO is an Olive 2-4 and not a Black 242 (coz the wiring changed)?

Assuming Olive 2-4, then going from source to spkr.

NAC32.5 (5 pin OUTPUT socket) to Hicap-NAC (socket 4): SNAIC5
Hicap-NAC (socket 3) to Hicap-SNAXO (socket 3): SNAIC4
Hicap-SNAXO (socket 4) to SNAXO (socket 1): SNAIC5
(and the big link plug on the SNAXO must be installed)

SNAXO (socket 4) to NAP250-left(ch 1): DIN-XLR(white band)
SNAXO (socket 5) to NAP250-right(ch 2): DIN-XLR(white band)

NAP250-left(ch 1) to left SBL
NAP250-right(ch 2) to right SBL

[Anil]

Hi,

I went for the Olive Snaxo 2-4. I have to say it was not the most intuitive setup.

I had to get an additional SNAIC from Naim: one SNAIC 4 and a SNAIC 5.

One went from the Supercap feeding the Nac 52 to the HiCap feeding Snaxo. And one from the HiCap to the Snaxo.

I got myself two connections from Snaxo to the two NAP250s. I really struggled to get a full wiring diagram. The most nerve wracking moment was working out which of the amplifier outputs fed which speaker.

I’m the end it was simple. I labelled the end of each speaker cable: left bass; left treble; right bass and right treble.

Snaxo output Chanel 1 is left
Snaxo output channel 2 is right

On the Amos, Chanel 1, or left is Bass and channel 2 the treble

Good luck, I found the improvement substantially better!

Anil.

[bluearcher]

Yep olive SNAXO. That’s very helpful, thank you

[bluearcher]

Excellent advice, thank you

[Anil]

Hi all. I managed to get the turntable power supply away from the pre amp. Not noticed much difference in sound, but a slight hum has definitely gone. Going to try and get the Snaxo moved next.

Thanks for the advice.

[Dave]

Hi Anil,

This last and your first photos have got my OCD tendencies crying out for a complete change of layout. As HH says, I’d urge you not to make any changes to your cabling at this point (other than to get the dressing sorted - we can’t see what’s going on behind), but rather look at changing how everything is set up.

Can you move everything bar the LP12 off the top surface of the cabinet? I’m sure you can. I’m assuming that you have a latest version Trampolin? If not you need one. With the surface clear, you can move the cassette player and the Radikal there and I’d suggest putting the Radikal on the isolation shelf that the CDX sits on at the moment.

Now move the 52 to the top left hand shelf and the CDX to the next, Snaxo below that.

Assuming there’s sufficient height on the lowest shelf (where you have the Radikal at the moment), I’d probably place the Supercap and the 2 HiCaps there (I think the cable from your Prefix should reach but you may need to place one of the HiCaps to the left.

Next, move your 250’s to the top 2 shelves on the right hand side and the NDX below.

Ideally, I’d like to add some form of isolation platform (perhaps some Sonority cones) under anything that is sitting on a what appear to be pretty sturdy shelves.

But that’s just me…