Fraim adjustment

I’m currently in the process of re-adjusting my Fraim, as I have obviously made some mistakes.

Some problems appear. The base is absolutely in the level, but if another level is added, this one is not. It’s also funny that the base is no longer in the level when a level is added. The floor is made of stone and does not give way.

I don’t think that there are such large manufacturing tolerances in production.
It’s also interesting that this problem occurred with both bases.

So what am I doing wrong?

Hermann, I find that it’s important to get the base level, but don’t tighten up the spikes yet until you have got all the levels on. Then make the tiny adjustments that may be needed to level everything up so the top glass is absolutely level. Then tighten up the spikes, of course making sure that you don’t go out of level while tightening.

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That’s an interesting way of doing it. I’ve always built the Fraim one level at a time, adding the equipment as I go. I suspect most do this, as building the whole stack and then adding the boxes is really hard. Do you mean that you build it, finalise the levelling and then take it apart again?

For what it’s worth, I set up the base, add a heavy box and confirm the level with a big spirit level. Once that’s ok I build the rest.

Thanks Richard and hungryhalibut

I am not sure to what extent each level should/must be set individually.

If the lower glass is absolutely in the level, the ones above are not. Does that mean that they are adjusted individually? Actually this is not possible without loosening the spikes of the aluminium legs.

The “error” continues upwards. This means that I can actually only align one level correctly, the others are not.

I also add the kit as I go but I also ensure that I do any tiny adjustments for final levelling - i.e. final levelling is all down to the top level, as that’s the most critical one. If the top is perfectly level then so should all the others as any possible error will always be greatest at the top.

Richard, that would imply that those below are not properly in the level.

Not really because the top is by far the most critical one to be perfectly level. Once that’s perfectly level, all the other levels should be fine too (provided you’ve not made a gross error in construction), within the tolerance of the overall Fraim.

In fact, I have now followed hungryhalibut hint, I guess. The base leveled, but first all levels empty. The deviation is there, but not very much. I also have to admit to use a very precise spirit level, which shows 0.4mm with the appropriate scaling. And there is almost a millimeter deviation on top.

Then down the levels again, individually loaded and checked again. In any case, there are deviations to be seen, which are certainly not that decisive. With a normal spirit level these should hardly be measurable.

Now that everything is set up, I know how important a correct setup of the Fraim is. I was probably a bit too laissez-faire during the first setup…


When you say perfectly level, how level is that. ie do you take a standard spirit level and make sure the bubble is centered, or other?

Take a spirit level (bar type, longer the better) and ensure it’s perfectly level (bubble centred) lengthways and widthways.

Or maybe use a Bubble level?

Is that the same thing as a spirit level?

Here’s what I mean by a spirit level;

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That’s exactly what you’re looking for.

I meant to say Circular Bubble Level

FWIW I check the level of the ND555 on top as well using the bubble level bar in both ways, Fraim triangle point to point but also front to rear. I also make sure the base spikes are centered in the Chips’ receptacles. A nightmare but great satisfaction once accomplished.

Small circular spirit levels have their place and will do at a pinch, but unless it’s perfect and the surface perfectly clean and perfectly flat (even glass isn’t perfectly flat) they can give a slightly inaccurate reading. I find a bar type more accurate for levelling something like the Fraim

To place the LP12 on a shelf that is really straight, I use a spirit level with high precision, which is necessary for certain machines for adjustment. On the picture you can also see other tools of course.

The LP12 needs a really balanced surface so that the plate, if adjusted correctly, will not wobble. Therefore the small spirit level is placed on the spindle and the LP12 is adjusted. Nevertheless it is not on the Fraim. However, I am very exact concerning the placement and alignment of the planes. Sometimes maybe too much of a good thing…

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Whenever I do a Fraim re-build on my twin stacks, I do use a spirit level to ensure that the bases, and each subsequent level remain true.

Here’s the thing, though … (daft question alert) … why should it matter that the shelves are levelled to the nth degree, assuming that, as in my case, there is neither a turntable nor CD player, with their mechanical rotation, involved?

I just can’t see why such a degree of accuracy should make any real difference to my streamer, pre-amp etc, even allowing for their internal suspension … c’mon, 1 degree out of level really matters? :man_shrugging:

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Laddie…when u are listening go the Alabama 3 every little helps…good blog last night. I do worry about their health though, could be an image thing, suspect not.

Yes, I enjoyed it too, and it just confirmed my view that they’re all as mad as a box of frogs, and hugely entertaining

Was hoping for a wee bit more choons, but happily, en route to a link which actually worked, found their YouTube channel, which has loads of concert footage available, so, that’s nice.

Back on topic … 1 degree out of level actually makes a difference … nah, surely no’?

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