I’m pretty sure it applies to non condensing boilers also, but the effect is greater with condensing boilers.
I should have started the tthread with condensing boilrs……
And ended it with. If your boiler is in the loft, please ignore. 
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Yes. the heat is stored in the 1300 kg stone.
This is what I read on a website:
'Swedish stoves are substantial, built with shaped bricks with the joints between the bricks sealed with clay. In the lower part there is a fire box where wood burns at a very high temperature. Gases (and heat) can go straight up the chimney but if a baffle is closed then the hot fumes are redirected through a number of flues around the outer edge of the stove before finally being drawn out through the chimney. This means that the bricks themselves warm up quickly and retain the heat which then slowly radiates out to warm the room. The tiles also help retain heat but rarely get too hot to touch. Other features found are pipes or channels sometimes built in below the hearth to bring a draught of fresh air into the firebox, to make burning more intense, and there are usually small hatches in the side of the stove for access to clean out any soot or resin from the fuel that has built up in the flues.
The main advantage of this form of stove is that, once it gets up to temperature, it continues to give out heat as the bricks cool slowly over a period of ten or twelve hours, long after the fire itself has died down. That means the stove does not have to burn continuously to heat the room but at best only twice a day - in the morning to heat the room through the day and in the late afternoon or early evening to bring the bricks back up in temperature to heat the room through the night.’
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No issues with that if you can absorb/afford the costs.
There are moral/environmental issues beyond that but I’m no angel leaving Naim kit on 24/7 currently.
That’s automatic weather compensation as opposed to manual.
I don’t think it’s popular with installers, not easy to set up.
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What does a kWh of electricity cost where you live?
Yes, that is what we have.
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Yes. It’s the temperature of the water leaving the boiler, as opposed to the return temperature.
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1 kWh was £ 0.20, as of 1st Oct £ 0.225, heaven knows next March/April.
Need to find some old bills but probably well over 100% more than a decade ago.
My supplier’s fixed rate offer currently is £ 0.33 so for now better off on standard variable rate.
EDIT - that’s for electricity not gas.
I asked for that, installer was unimpressed I think as he’d already purchase the boiler before telling me what he was installing - all a bit of a mess, don’t ask!
I have long been careful with energy consumption for environmental reasons so won’t be changing anything really as I am in the fortunate position that I can absorb the energy price rises.
I do feel concerned for people on low incomes and or benefits and especially those on prepayment meters, with the food costs rises they are going to be in a very difficult position over the next 6 months or so, particularly if we have a cold winter.
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It’s a bit like the moral argument for people who have extremely rare and difficult to cultivate plants that grow naturally in peat bogs. They get obsessed with using peat free mixes to save the planet, but usually with compromises. This is whilst the big users of peat are the arrogant companies that burn tons of the stuff for fuel.
Insulate your house properly is the biggest thing you can do and then change to direct debit.
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Yikes! That’s about 10x what I pay. Our bill is still $250/month. Depending on the climate where you live, a high performance variable speed heat pump May save significant amounts of electricity. Other than that… I’ve discovered over 1/3 our usage goes to hot water. My wife is super concerned about not wasting electricity so I turned down the temperature on our large reserve heat from 120 F to ~ 90F. That’s not safe if you have one heater since legionaries needs 140 F for a few minutes to kill. Moving to a water heater that uses a heat pump can also save significant electricity. It’s not really cost efficient for us but at your rates I’d definitely look into it. Obviously led lighting helps a lot. Other than that it’s hard to trim off much without a degree of inconvenience.
I really wanted to put in a solar system but my home owners association is run by octogenarians who value conformity above all other things.
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Not sure where you are globally but reminds me I need to stock up on some peat containing compost as the alternatives are currently dire.
Ireland are stopping using peat for power stations, suspect supplies for domestic usage will be axed next. Peat works very well in my multi-fuel stove, will buy some more.
Loft aside not much more to insulate so options are limited but some gain can be achieved.
The difference between DD and quarterly is minimal currently with my supplier.
How many kWh do you use annually? My 2021-2022 forecast is currently 13,000-14,000 kWh for electricity, it used to be far more, LED lights, losing the 24/7 fan heater Mac Pro made a difference but the prices are considerably higher now.
The reason installers don’t like weather compensation, is it’s too much trouble.
When they commission the boiler, they have to select what they think is the correct heat curve for the building. If the figure they select is too low, the builing will not heat up, too high and the building will overheat. On the graph below the heat curve range is 0.2 to 3.4.
The last thing a plumber wants is to be returning 2 or 3 times, fine tuning the heat curve.
You could always set up weather compensation control yourself. You probably don’t need an outside temperature sensor. It would get the info from the internet.
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Interesting - seems odd the industry introduce them if they are so much hassle, but agree you’ll get the data live online for adjustmenst these days.
I pay by DD, predominantly as this is how the UK market and best deals are set up.
However I feel it’s pre-payment by another name, and largely a ruse by the energy suppliers to get customers to fund their attempts to hedge the supply market. The DD are designed to keep the customer account (and company) in credit. So we are paying upfront for the energy.
Despite having an excellent credit record why, as a customer, can I not get preferential rates paying in arrears for the energy I use?
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I switched from DD maybe 5-6 years ago when we were out of the property having work done - at that point I was fed up constantly demanding refunds for credit due to overestimated DD payments which had been an ongoing issue for years.
I think many years ago you could get a cheaper rate by ‘paying in advance’ for energy - that would certainly be good for many of us I feel and help the companies secure future supplies at better rates. Probably wrong 
Umm… hmmm… I know we use 6,000 for heat and cooling but it’s often 90-100F in summer and frequentl -10F in winter. Also I have to keep the place at 68F year round. We have 2,400 square feet and the annual expense for that is about $350.
The rates change dramatically based on season but… I think we use 18,000 kWh/year. Which is much higher than our neighbors but they enjoy sweating to death, won’t install a variable speed heat pump, use gas as primary heating fuel, and don’t have 160 gallon water heaters.
Is that inclusive of taxes and miscellaneous fees? About 1/3 our bill is from those.