Good evening,
Is anyone using a Funk Firm Gett record player? I recently bought one second-hand and am struggling a bit with setting the bias.
The process seems strange. I have to turn the bias knob quite a lot on the F7 tonearm, but this causes the tonearm to lift slightly, and the azimuth setting no longer aligns properly. After I adjust the bias (tested on a vinyl without grooves), I can no longer access the azimuth screw because it becomes concealed by the rotated bias knob.
Does anyone here have experience with this tonearm?
I used a blank record (I took the so-called dust-protection plate from my Nottingham turntable, because somewhere in the instructions it says you can use it to check the anti-skating).
Unfortunately, when I have turned the BIAS knob so that the tonearm is stable on the naked record (i.e., not being pulled in or out), the knob moves so far that I can no longer reach the AZIMUTH adjustment screw. I have to do this because the azimuth moves a little when I turn the BIAS knob.
I would have thought if the arm doesn’t move, the bias was set to zero. When the bias is correct, the arm should move towards the centre of the record.
…no, the bias provides a force away from the centre. When bias is set correctly, the centripetal force and the bias cancel each other out, so that the stylus remains in place.
Or, the frictional force on the stylus caused by the record, pushes stylus towards the outside of the record. The bias counteracts the outward force by pushing towards the centre.
This is not correct. The nett frictional vector, due to stylus offset witin the groove, cancels our over the surface, depending on whether the arc followed by the stylus is either in front or behind the radius that a tangential arm would follow. Radial tracking spends some time in front and some time behind.
This is simple when you bear in mind that the frictional force is not relevant. You could try spraying a record with WD 40 to proove the point…but don’t!
Now let’s get on to: if your arm is not from yout TT manufacturer, then the arm board or plinth should be specifically drilled for that arm’s geometry! So much has been lost since the 1980s when dealers all knew this.