Hifi Lowboard - Requirements

A few things that I should have put in my last post…

  1. Long shelves bow more easily over the years than short shelves, and having no back is likely to make that worse. Does the distance between verticals need to be more than 50cm or so, for example?

  2. Some isolation platforms designed as such look obtrusive, but some don’t.

  3. For my current hi-fi in London, the best solution we tried was HRS rubbery feet on the c.2cm granite shelves, with the Naim boxes directly on those feet - no extra glass or wood or clever platform, but also leaving the Naim feet dangling. Second best was putting the Naim boxes on the shelves where they had always been, and anything else tried was identical to that to our ears or definitely worse (with cups and balls in that group). However, some people clearly get very different results from me when using cups-and-balls (with no Fraim).

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I’ll just leave this here too :slight_smile:

Bah, the picture doesn’t preview. GraemeH’s solution looks pretty nice.

image

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Thank you HH - that’s the one :slight_smile:

It’s an off the shelf item IIRC (IKEA Stockholm?), not sure if it comes backless, or it’s constructed well enough not to worry once the back is removed. Also houses 500 level kit.

This finished at a top quality level plus front-doors would be great. I would most likely put spikes under the feet or ask to fit Ansuz Darkz resting on 12 titanium balls underneath.

While it houses the boxes, it may or may not let them work to their best. Whether or not people actually care about getting the best from their £50,000 spend is something for them alone to decide. Certainly if I’d spent that much I’d want it fully optimised. Maybe it depends how easily that sort of money is to get hold of.

It has front doors, they tip up and over I think, you can just see them below the upper surface of the unit. @GraemeH can probably tell you more

In an effort to improve airflow and cooling i mod’ed our lowboard shelves by cutting holes in them and covered with aluminium grills…

It’s effective enough to permit an avr amp to run cool in use with the door closed but we do have open backs.

For wood construction you may need to strengthen the joint to prevent rotation between the shelf and the sides if you don’t have a back.

I currently have the same IKEA Stockholm cabinet as @GraemeH, although right now my boxes are on top. If more boxes find their way into the system, I will either have to do as Graeme has done by removing the back and putting the boxes inside or upgrade the rack, likely to Isoblue. The Stockholm is quite sturdy and pretty attractive.

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Don’t know if this will help, but here’s my custom built unit (solid Walnut to match my TT & speakers).

I hate seeing cables hanging from units so try to hide them where ever possible. I simply taped about £3 worth of black felt to the back of the unit & cut holes in it for the cables.

I think it looks very good & a big plus is that if I ever change equipment & the holes are in the wrong places, simply buy another piece of felt & start again.

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That looks lovely. Is your LP12 walnut too?

Yes &, to me, very nice it looks to. The unit & speakers compliment it very well in my opinion.

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I guess the carpenter will know what to do. I am not doing it by myself.

Looks great!

@sailorck Yes, you can bring the doors down to close off the unit. To allow this the components need set further back on the shelves. For the upper shelf this may mean infilling the cable feed hole on each of the two outer compartments.

As we can only accommodate one unit which has to take the tv, router, hard-drive, switch etc, it seemed sensible / discrete if it also housed the hifi.

We simply have no room for a Fraim or other dedicated rack.

G

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