Home made high end Ethernet cables

silly me - although an AP supporting WMM with a streamer wifi implementation ideally supporting WMM (though not as important as the AP) could improve inter frame timing consistency - that on ethernet did make a difference on Naim first gen streamers.
Ubiquiti support WMM if one correctly DSCP encodes the ethernet frames I understand. Most commercial grade APs support WMM of course.

DSCP also can hold true for ethernet - but we are in diminishing returns - but that is what Audiophiles tend to do I believe. Sadly I have not seen any so called audiophile switches supporting DSCP, they tend to support very basic/elementary ethernet functionality from what I have seen that is not optimised for SQ performance

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Funny you should say that…

Feel free to steal the idea :joy:

I’m all commented out, what with the heat my tiny mind can’t cope :relaxed:

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No thank you. I have made plenty of my own in the past, and currently use certified and tested ones from FS dot COM.

BTW, I rarely if ever had any failed ones, even with cheap plugs (for work). Just work neat, careful and check closely at every step. Especially a final visual inspection before crimping.

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It would help if you had a fancy name and lots of acronyms to justify a high price tag :innocent:

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Telegartner look really cool and will of course appeal to audiophiles because they look oh so fancy. Totally unnecessary in a domestic environment of course.

Ideally for patch cables you want to be using stranded and not solid core cable.

I use the two piece plastic ones specifically for CAT6, if you buy in 50s its like 6 quid for the lot.

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Audiophile wifi access points are SOOO 2021

I’m just not inventive enough, that’s why I still have to work instead of selling audiophile Bitcoin or NTFs

:rofl:

Just to be clear, this is about components in a wireless router being soldered.

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The shielded ones are for Cat6A.

Of course for audio not at all needed in terms of data transmission, but if RF pickup is a factor influencing DAC behaviour then a shielded cable with shielded plugs may make a difference - positive or negative, depending on whether someone prefers the RF modulation effect, or not, and depending on what it is connected to and how that is or is not grounded, or causing the shield to act as an antenna adding to the RF…

Yeah I think your explanation there is at best a stretch of credibility for the sake of audiophilia, but I am down for that. People honestly believed black naca5 sounded better than white, so we should all have fun whilst we still can.

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Oh come on, everybody knows red cars are faster😁

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non-hifi side question - do you have any recommendations for cat6a cable to use for:

  1. external direct burial use?
  2. internal infrastructure wiring?

also

  1. sockets/faceplates?

The internal use will be on a refurb I’m doing at home, the external for a 30m run down the garden to my diy observatory.

Ta Rob

It you are going to all the trouble of digging a 30 metre trench you will only want to do it once! So I would suggest that you bury trunking so that you can run whatever cables you want through it, and they can be easily replaced in future if required. Personally I would still run external grade cable in it.

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Fair point Chris. Gonna get a mini digger for the trench for sure :slight_smile:
Will be running both power (armoured cable) and the ethernet so I guess some flexi conduit isn’t a big deal in the scheme of things.

Hi Rob

For direct burial use you must use fully steel armoured cable and branding on that is very limited, never seen it in Cat6a, so you will likely end up with what you can get. I would normally bury a 63/50 twin wall poly duct in the ground so you can pull cables in and change them or add if needed. I’d buy 2x 50m rolls and fit 3 ducts with it for an observatory 30m away, that allows for power down one, data and control down the 2nd and a spare.

Duct cable choice for me is the Excel Cat6a external grade used in this link, or the Cat5e Ubiquiti Pro tough cable. I’m no Ubiquiti fan and the cable is not very flexible so not great to work with but it is cheap, strong and a very good choice for duct use. You can of course still use the steel armoured cable. In either case be very gentle with duct bends, especially the upturns out the ground else you wont get the cables through and do fit a 8mm pull rope. Note, do you need Cat6a, I’m always one to over engineer yet I’d only use Cat5e for home networking and maybe Cat6 for WiFi points so they can run multi gig speeds. I generally only use Cat6a for microwave point to point devices.

For internal use I almost always use Excel Cat5e/Cat6/Cat6a though do like Connectix too. Avoid the grey PVC and spend a few pence more on the LSOH sheafs, it handles and looks so much nicer.

Network modules for me are always Excel, they are solid body rather than clip together and don’t fall apart in use like many do. Choose the low profile if box space is limited and for stiffer cables like Ubiquiti external or any Cat6. They offer raised and flat white faceplates to suit or I myself use Schneider Lisse decorative plates at home.

Enjoy!

Pseudo blurb is right, IT IS DIGITAL, 1 & 0 which are cleaned up at the receiving end.

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Yeah, that’s why Ethernet cables are so expensive. You have to use special 99.999999% pure OFC copper or the bits all turn up filthy at the other end.

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If digital actually existed, but in the real world it is only rules applied to a messy analog signal.