Infuriating NAIM gear!

No idea why that link wouldn’t work, I’ll try it again.

Linky no worky.

I heard that you were able to hook up a active 500 system blind folded and after been spun around in a circle 90 times and you didn’t spill a single drop of your pint !

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Strange, I’ve posted the same link before, but for some reason it won’t work this time. If you search for ‘Naim Audio connection guide’ you’ll find it.

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Naim Audio connection guide

This link should work…

Hi
I have some questions please:

In the manual for my system, that must be from the 1980’s, the sockets on the rear of the HICAP show socket 4 connected to the Pre-Amp
and
Sockets 1 and 2 the diagram shows pin 2 of the socket N/C
Socket 3 the diagram shows pin 2 +ve

Then in the manual it says with one amp : socket 2 to Amp socket 3 tp Pre-Amp
with a note socket 4 applies to -4 -5 and -6 products

So, would the NAC62 be one of the -4 -5 and -6 products (manual predating the 62)?

And so which of sockets 1, 2 or 3 should be connected to the Amp, in my case the NAP140?

Will the system suffer if the socket 3 is used with the +ve on pin 2?

The later manuals downloaded show sockets 1, 2 and 3 with pin 2 shown N/C.

What is the way to connect my particular set of components (NAC62, HICAP and NAP140) please?

Thanks, look forward the a definitive answer please…

The early Hicaps had a 2 x 24V DC supply on socket 4, with a 1 x 24v DC supply on socket 3 to remain compatible with earlier single-rail pre-amps (NAC12, 22, 32, 42). Socket 4 is on a DIN5 and in conjunction with a SNAIC5 can be used to power later dual-rail pre-amps (NAC32.5, 42.5, 62, 72, 82, 102, 112, 122, 152, 202, 282). To connect to the power amp, you should take signal from the Hicap socket 1 or socket 2. Only use socket 3 to power a single-rail pre-amp.

Thanks, I’m ok with amps and PS’s, it’s CD/DAC to the rest I struggle with

Richard, thanks for this, I did not know the distinction of the 2 x 24V DC supply on socket 4, and 1 x 24v DC supply on socket 3.

So another question please: will the system be damaged by using socket 3 on the NAP140?

And also, is there an simple short explanation of how 2x24v and 1x24v are delivered over a single wire? (Excuse this ignorance of electronics…)

Thanks,

Probably not, unless you misconnect, but it’s good practice to avoid and use only one of the signal only outputs.

It’s one cable, but contains a number of wires, each usually corresponding to a pin on the DIN. If you look at the pin diagram on the back of the kit it will show you.

Thanks, there has been some confusion here with the connections after taking the system down for cleaning, and re-connection was missing the diagram and I thought I knew what I was doing! Clear on the connections, and I see the 2 +ve on the socket 4, and just the one +ve on the socket3, so I understand this too.

I have been re-examining things because I noticed the case of the NAP140 seem to be warmer than usual, so I had a look at the system connections (all original Naim supplied) and then till your explanation was muddled.

Any comments about the warmness of the 140 (measures about 30-35 deg C) welcome please…

I am aware of the need to get all the components serviced, and am looking at suitable agents to do this for me. I am in Kent, and the best advice on this board seems to be Class A Audio. Pity they are so far away…

Thanks for your advice.

For servicing it’s best to keep it to Naim’s approved standard, so either via your Naim dealer to the factory, or to Class A.

Slightly warm is fine, very warm to hot is not. The warmth may be down to need for servicing, But also may be due to inappropriate speaker cable. Are you using NACA4 or NACA5, at least 3.5m per channel, with properly soldered Naim plugs?

Richard

Thanks, I have been talking to Class A Audio, and soon will get this sorted.

I have been using the NACA4, 3.5m since the original set up of my system, and have proper soldered Naim speaker plugs on the amplifier end, and plugs with screw down connections on the other (speaker) ends, and these have been un-disturbed for years.

Thanks…

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Darran At Class A does great work and you get a genuine Naim service. He’s serviced a 102, 82, an XPS and Supercap for me with improved performance in all cases. :blush:

Naim amps - at least the current range - will shut down automatically if the internal temperature reaches 70 degrees C so I’d say you are fine with 30 to 35 degrees external. The case is intended to work as a heat sink to keep the amp cool, so you can expect it to be a little above ambient temperature.

Thanks…

Reassuring…

Calum, is your CD/DAC cable BNC terminated? Apart from potentially improving SQ, this should avoid misconnections in that part of your audio chain.

Roger

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oops! i use a CB Hicap to power my 282 and was taking the signal from socket 3 to go to my 250. i had no idea – swapped 'round now!

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It’s worth bearing in mind that some early Hicaps have had their single rail supply on socket 3 disconnected - this was something Naim service would do for you if you didn’t need the single rail supply, as it gave a useful performance lift to the dual-rail supply on socket 4. Hicaps that offered a single rail supply on socket 3 were the Chrome Bumpers and the first few years of the Olives.

Hi

You mention a performance lift if the +ve on socket 3 is disconnected…

How does this work is nothing is connected to socket 3?

Or is the change somewhere else, is the lead removed at the regulator end?

Thanks…