Ok it does feel strange, almost as if your iPhone is on a different wlan to the one on your disc… I would try phoning as well.
The higher the number on the powerline the more interference they tend to throw out that gets into the analogue domain. When I had to use them a while ago I found that the av500 produced less interference the av1200 I had made listening to my turntable impossible due to interference with my phono pre.
BT were as helpful as they could be with this problem, but couldn’t solve it. They then offered me my money back, but I said no, as the system was working, even if I couldn’t use the app.
I then bought one additional disc to try to improve coverage, and when I plugged it in, the app began to work! I then worked through the installation process from the beginning, and I now have four discs with blue lights.
I estimate that I will need 1-2 more to make it robust, which is more than I thought I should need.
Does the system sound any better? Hard to say. I don’t think it sounds any worse!
A big benefit is that Roon is now much more responsive, having been previously subject to significant delays in searching. As a result, I have re enabled Tidal, which had been a significant ‘drag’ on searches.
There are still one or two Ethernet power adapters in other parts of the house, but I aim to eliminate them all within the next two weeks, when I will report again.
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I now have 5 discs and coverage throughout the house, and I have removed all the Powerlines. Of course I have convinced myself that it sounds better, but I also believe it really is. The improved responsiveness of Roon (even with the Tidal service turned on) has been maintained.
Download Speed tests all over the house have ranged from 94Mbps to 244Mbps all over the house, against a low of 14Mbps just before making the change.
A big improvement for a modest expenditure. Thanks to all contributors here!
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Great outcome… thanks for sharing, glad you have now a good wifi system and improved Hi-Fi experience 
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Great news!
I’ve just seen this thread and i have this problem. I have been using a TP Link power line adapter for mainly my AV equipment (TV, Oppo android box etc) and while i know it’s been putting noise in the mains and effecting my hi fi, especially the from the cartridge on the linn sondek, making a horrendous noise. If i wants to listen to the turntable i would unplug the power adapter making it better. I have just bought a Tacima CS947 6 Way UK Mains Conditioner hoping this would cure my ills. Unfortunately it’s made things worse, the sondek has still the same noise, but now there is audible noise coming through on the AV input and also the CD. Not very happy as now i’ve just bought a very expensive surge protector.
Both the Power Line adaptors and the Tacima conditioner/surge protector will be conspiring against your hifi sounding good. I think the answer is clear - remove both ASAP.
I was wondering if these wi fi extenders would be any better. Maybe a bit slower in Mpps but better in reduced noise for the hi fi.
One note if folks find this thread looking for the Google mesh products – they require their own subnet numbering system which is different that the standard 192.168.1.xxx It’s 192.168.73.x This is because they assign ip addresses to the remote nodes. I didn’t know that at first.
When I got the Google wifi up and running, it was clear that the Naim app couldn’t communicate with the Naim players, and the Roon app couldn’t see the Roon nucleus. Figured out the subnet issue, fretted about it for a few hours, and finally just switched things over so that the Google hub (router) does DHCP service for my entire home network – not the ISP’s router. It’s all fine now, and the Google hub appears to be a robust router.
Apparently not all mesh systems work this way (that is, assigning ip addresses to their remote nodes)?? But it’s not optional with Google mesh - again apparently.
Certainly better than Ethernet-over-mains devices. I use an Apple Airport Express as a wireless access point for my Uniti Core (just linked by a a few metres of ethernet cable) and it works well.
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Up until a few weeks ago I was using TP Link powerline adapters. Granted they weren’t affecting the sound from my system but the network was a mess; some devices were visible from some parts of the house but not others and overall it was very slow. I also had an issue where a newly purchased ND5XS2 would just lose contact with the Naim app and be a nightmare to get back online.
I invested in a BT Whole Home wifi mesh system and it is something I should have done ages ago. I now get fast speeds throughout the house, everything on the network is visible from anywhere in the house and so far no dropouts on the streamer. It is a very simple plug and play solution, just attach the first disc to an ethernet port in the router then the BT whole home app guides you through the rest of the process. From unboxing to up and running was about 15 minutes at most. No need to set different subnets or DHCP, all you need to do is disable the wifi on the main router and that’s it. They will work with any ISP not just BT (we have Talk Talk) so maybe something worth considering. Hopefully you can still return the mains conditioner?
If I disable the wi fi on the main router that would mean i-pads, phones etc will not work ? I’ll have to look into some of these options, thanks for peoples advice.
No, the mesh system provides the wifi instead of the router and the BT app makes it easy to change the SSID and password so you don’t need to reconfigure all your devices to use a new network name
I’ve taken those power line adaptors out and replace with a long run of cat 5e cable around the house with a friend who had a lot cable to spare. With the proper crimp tool and plugs (he uses this in his trade) i installed it. With a couple hiccups on the way and with a cable and plug tester everything is fine. However after installing an internet speed app on the fire cube i’m not getting the speed i get as compared to what pc is getting. The recorded speed i’m getting on my pc is 219 mbps but only 90 at best on the cube to the tv. Even though the cable is quite long it should not alter the performance at this length, i’m a bit puzzled, has anyone got any ideas ?
My guess is that the Fire Cube thing is runing on a 10/100 wired Ethernet connection, in which case a measured speed of 90 is about right.
When i installed an app on the tv it said there was a problem in which the speed was too slow to register, but i think that app is broken. The only one way to be sure is to try it on a laptop.
Hi… Ethernet cable is optimally designed to work to 100 metres, which in a domestic setting is rather long.
The data throughput is governed by the connected devices on the cable. Cat 5e cable can support link speeds upto 1Gbps over 100 metres.
Ethernet speeds are 10,100,1000 Mbps and higher…
Link speeds and application data throughput are two different but connected aspects.
When you made your Ethernet cable connectors I assumed you used a cable checker?
An Ethernet cable can still work if some of the pairs are unconnected… but limits performance to half duplex, and/or 10/100 Mbps instead of 1Gbps even if the connected devices are 1Gbps.
It sounds like your cable connections might be at fault … use an Ethernet cable checker, or if you use a quality switch like a Cisco 2960 it can check the cable for some issues as well.
I did use a cable checker and when i did it there were a couple of faults, no matter how careful i did it. But when my friend did it (does this a lot in his job) he got it right first time, everything was good, all lights lit up saying pass. He’s coming round later and we’re going to run a patch lead up to this mac which registers speeds up to 200 Mbps. I’ve put an internet speed checker on the amazon fire cube and also on the tv which registers speed up 94 Mbps which ticks all the boxes for SD HD 4K 8K. I just curious and it’s also bugging me why it’s not going to the full speed.
Ok if your cable has been tested and wired by your friend, a professional installer, it won’t be that…I know they can be hard to do for the novice.
What speed interface is the Amazon fire cube?
If it’s 100 Mbps then this will be fine?
You need to look at the speed of the connected lan interfaces. What does the TV and Amazon fire connect to? A switch? If so what are the port speeds of the switch… and what does the switch connect to?