Is it true - some batteries last longer than others?

Well yes, I have, but I like to know the exact time too.

A few seconds a week for my 18th century 30 hour clock. It’s more accurate than my Seiko Kinetic watch!

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Thats … rather unfair and harsh, don’t you think…?

I have found no problems with Duracells.

But… YMMV…

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Same here.

I bought a Duracell battery for use in my Canon 40D, works just fine.

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My bicycle changer manufacturer, SRAM, says to avoid any battery with coatings: "For best performance, choose replacement batteries without a bitter child-safe coating ring. This ring can cause interference between the battery and terminal, resulting in potential perfomance issues.*

I find Energiser significantly better than Duracell for low power devices where you just want long life, so I think you made a good choice.

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I find the same brand of alkaline and non alkaline have vastly different lifespans. Despite costing the same to a penny.

However, I read that alkaline batteries are extremely challenging to recycle whereas non alkaline are super easy and while neither is great for the environment, non alkaline battery has a very simple and lower impact recovery process so I buy them or use trusty Eneloops

Batteries are a complex subject and choosing a ‘better’ battery is not straight forward. However, Duracell have their marketing and productions ways, which never seem to change.

Really basically and using very basic terms, in a perfect world, we would all want the battery to give 100-90% performance for its entire life performance, then die quickly at the end. This performance would obviously be long. However, many brands achieve long duration times (for marketing) by rapidly discharging to a lower state and then run long. Or gradually discharge at a constant rate. This usually is poor for the product you’re using. Duracell is one of these. Also, ime Duracell have always leaked easily and looking at reviews, still do. They just don’t care.

Without digging out all the info on battery comparisons, I do remember the interesting discharge graphs.

NiMH is great for flashguns, as it has low resistance and can supply current at a fast rate. Eneloop are a superb battery. I use many flashguns with Eneloop in my job and some of the batteries are over 11 years old. I use a brilliant Schulze battery charger that I’ve had for 12 years. I know it’s charging characteristics like the back of my hand and can easily monitor battery performance. A new totally flat 2,000mAh battery should be able to receive 1C (2amps). Years later, Eneloop performance hardly changes, even after 100s of charges. They also retain 70% charge after 10 years storage. A misconception or misunderstanding is that 1.2v is a problem. Not really. If the product is designed for rechargeable use, it will have a wide voltage tolerance and performance shouldn’t be affected. And here’s a graph showing that the typical standard battery doesn’t keep 1.5v anyway.

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I’d imagine rechargeable a real PITA for remote controls and wireless thermostats.
Rechargeables die doing nothing nothing far faster than any dry battery.
Alkalines like any are compromise but easier on the planet and product than Zinc Carbons or now the buzzword Lithium being a new kid on the block not having learned how to recycle them or indeed control the “ Thermal Runaway “ glitches. :scream:

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Not My Experience.

But… as I said… YMMV. I will allow you that… :expressionless:

PS. I think its unlikely that a particular Battery makers products are ‘total crap’.

It’s time to try Eneloop.

Can see that being economical for fast use power objects but opening remote controls etc would be far more often than my six monthly checks for leaks.
I’ve only ever had one leaky alkaline and it was in an old mini torch in the car way past it’s second date on the can. :scream:

…… following on from this, I just checked my Narcom 4 remote control with Energiser Lithium AAA batteries.
It’s used multiple times most every day as it controls SN amp & NAT05 tuner
I fitted the batteries in 2022 and the voltage is still over nominal at 1.58

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I use eneloop in wireless game controllers and they last much longer than standard alkaline and non alkaline batteries.

They aren’t necessarily good for things that pull miniscule current over years like a clock. But they aren’t like the old NiCads either. They don’t run flat doing nothing for 5 days.

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I had never heard of them before this thread. I certainly don’t see them in B&M stores in NYC.

Just ordered some from Amazon. I have an old pair of PSB Bluetooth headphones that take two AAA batteries instead of having a rechargeable lithium battery. This has its advantages, but NiMh batteries last less than 10 hours, sometimes only 5. Interested to see if/how much the Eneloops improve on that.

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These are the ones you want.


Not the pro or lite.

And this is the bit that you won’t like; you really need a good charger. Not the Eneloop one or any old cheap one. If it’s less than £50, it’s going to be rubbish. You should go on a decent RC Model shop site and see the charger range there. I’ve had some dreadful chargers in the past and they just don’t work. One apparently decent one even charged 4 batteries at the same time at different rates to different levels. You need to know how much charge the batteries accept at each charging. You’ll get to know the batteries and you’ll know if the charger works. Not being ocd or awkward, just that battery charging isn’t something that you can take for granted and then blame the battery or product you’re using them in.

As a rough guide, don’t charge at a too low amperage nor over about 1200mAh for the 2000 mAh batteries. 1200mAh is about right.

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