I liked the old Royd way of doing it, where you had sockets on the box, ready to go if you used them active. The crossover connected to these if you were using them passive, and you connected to a different set of sockets in the base. If you wanted to biwire/passive biamp, you just cut a little wire underneath.
Better still, I like the Kudos approach. Just give us one pair of sockets, and be done with it.
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Why is everyone using jumper leads? or lengths of dubious metal for jumper leads, paying a fortune, just use the 12 ft of cable that is hooked up to your amp, just bare the last 3" of your speaker cable ( in my case Chord Epic ) and place through both hi and low of your speakers, therefor no joint or different cables material to introduce noise into the system.
Cheers Fergi
Ok if speakers have binding posts, whether the through-hole or wrap round type, but I think some may only have banana sockets.
B&W’s ‘cheaper’ speakers come with solid jumper bars which I think are gold-plated brass and are not known for sounding great. My 804Ss came with jumpers made of ‘proper’ wire but once I went over to NACA5 I couldn’t resist getting a pair of jumpers made up in NACA5 from a Naim dealer who sells them through fleaBay. I’ve never quite mustered the enthusiasm to A/B the NACA5 jumpers with the supplied ones, though I did recently follow the manual’s advice to have the main cable connected to the HF sockets rather than the LF ones, since the human ear is (relatively) more sensitive to HF.
Mark
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