I was just suggesting checking the speaker cables are ok. You can do that visually just to confirm all is fine.
It sounds like your NDX2 is ok but something is amiss with the 282/SC2/300. There is limited troubleshooting you can do apart from what you’ve done already.
I suppose one more thing is to power off the 300 wait a few mins and disconnect both DIN4 to XLR cables that run from the 300 to the Supercap (leave them connected to the 300).
Power on the 300 - do you hear a small hiss on both channels ? Just briefly touch the pins on the DIN plug end of each cable with your finger and you should hear a buzz in the speaker on that channel. Do this on both channels. If you get a buzz on both channels then the 300 sounds like it’s ok and the fault lies further up the chain. Possibly a stuck mute relay on the 282 ?
If you’re unsure about doing any of this then don’t do it and just wait and consult your dealer. There is really a limited amount you can do without having a few components to substitute into the system and once they’ve found the issue, a loan of an item could be arranged (so you’re not without music) if something does need to go back to Salisbury.
Another thing to try is to put the link plug back in on the 282 and wire the SC as a HC using one SNAIC so treating the SC as a HC to test.
James…I have done exactly as you said. Channel 2 gives a hum when I put my finger on the DIN pins. Channel 1 nothing.
I would be a little reluctant to try swapping the speaker cables if there is a possibility of a power amp fault, even though it could be useful for diagnosis. If the faulty amp is putting out DC current on one channel it can fry your speaker drivers. Swap channels and you end up frying the drivers on the other speaker too!
I’ll give that a go tomorrow. Thanks.
I’ll give that idea a miss then.
Ok good - it does sound like an issue with either one of the DIN4 to XLR input cables or the 300 itself. No hiss at all would point to the 300.
Give your dealer a call
I would just double check you definitely have the DIN-XLR leads the correct way around.
Yes, it’s well worth checking again. The 300 doesn’t say left and right, but ch1 and ch2, being left and right respectively. The lead with the green band goes in the ch1 socket. Remember too that as you look at the 300 from the front, the left socket (ch1) is on the right. We’ve all got it wrong over the years.
I had a similar problem with no left channel while putting a new 252/300 into my system. I was using RCA plugs from the source.
In my case the problem was the interconnect had failed on the left channel although it looked perfect. Just thought it worth a mention before diving into the black boxes.
It would appear that my NAP 300 is faulty. The Left Channel has absolutely no sound, no hiss, no nothing. With the help of a kind dealership in Norwich, who went through with with me, every conceivable test/check. He his going to hook it up to one of his systems, just to make 100% sure.
My system has been boxed up for the past 6 months, as I was in a rented property and didn’t want to upset my neighbour, who was the Landlord. I moved house last week, and personally moved the Naim system in my car, rather than let the removal guys do it. I feel gutted as I’ve treated my system like a basket of eggs.
A shame really, as my new SuperCap and NDX 2 won’t get their debut for several more weeks.
Sorry for the late reply Steve…
I am using the supplied interconnect that comes with the NDX 2. I’ve got some AudioQuest RCAs somewhere. Having just moved, damned if I can find them. Bloody typical!
A dealer has the NAP 300 now, so hopefully today he’ll let me know what’s going on.
You were spot on James!After all that, it turns out the be a faulty Tellurium Q, left speaker cable. I had checked all cables for anything obvious as a first priority. However, you cant’ see what’s going on under the sleeve that covers the join to the Banana plug.
The dealer had tested my 300 and 282 at their shop. (Costing me £105) All working perfectly. Lugged the boxes home and set up the system again. When it came to plugging in the left speaker cable (Speaker end) I noticed that the Positive Banana plug was a bit ‘limp’. On further examination, the cable had sheared off and totally detached itself from the plug.
So, it’s good news and bad news. Thank goodness it wasn’t the Naim boxes, the bad news is that it looks like a new set of speaker cables. To be fair, they were purchased 10 years ago, to go with my Supernait, HiCap, ND5 XS and Spendor A5s. I guess I can send them away and have a new plug soldered on, but time for an upgrade me thinks.
Not ideal I know, but I found an old Banana screw on plug as a temp fix.
Oh no David - That’s a bugger. At least you’ve found the problem and made a temporary fix. If you decide to go for new cables, you may want to demo Kudos KS-1.
Well glad you are sorted as such, as for the dealer charging a prospective new customer, not so sure. My dealer near Felixstowe plays the “long” game he would not have charged for checking out of courtesy,
One of my Tellurium Q interconnects had a fault. They re-soldered it and charged me £30, turning it round in just a couple of days. It’s cheaper than getting new cables.
Yes, @hungryhalibut I think I may well do that. It just means that one cable will be about 3-4 cm shorter than the other. Or, get them to snip the other plugs off, and re solder all new plugs. If one has sheared off, the others may follow suit.
Correct @Gazza. When I buy my Fraim and power supply for the NDX 2, it’s something I’ll take into account.
James…I know that you had the Kudos cable on your 606s, how are you finding them?
I had the Tellurium’s on my old Naim system. (Supernait, HiCap, ND5 XS and Spendor A5s.
As one plug appears to have ‘fallen off’ I wouldn’t trust any of them have been correctly soldered. I’d get them all re-terminated and properly soldered by someone who knows what they are doing.