I have LED lamps everywhere & have tested for this āproblemā a number of times.
Iāve found some low levels of switching noise when very close to the lamp(s) using a portable AM/SW radio, I say ālowā meaning compared to the old CFLās. Iāve not detected anything that is audible on wifi (not that I use it) or DAB or anywhere.
Iāve found a huge amount of variation between LED light fittings, with some putting out extremely high noise levels, and others very little, or none, as determined by the portable radio test.
All of the recessed ceiling lights Iāve tried, including GU10 and others, have been bad. I found a particular brand of filament type LED bulbs that seem to be very electrically quiet, and that is mostly what I use.
Just how much of this noise actually couples into the HiFi and causes any trouble is another matter, but with dozens of bulbs all round the house, I see it as a matter of good housekeeping to minimise this sort of noise where possible.
LEDs throughout my house and not conscious of any interference here. Electricity bills are certainly down. They donāt like my two internal security lights which is why I still use halogens in these.
We use Philips Hue LED lampsā¦ as these rely on Zigbee for communicationā¦ which is a very low level radio signal in one of the Wifi bands, they are necessarily low level noise in this part of the RF spectrumā¦ so we use with confidence.
But as said elsewhere, some cheaper variants, and some down lights can be notorious, can be real causes of pollution ā¦ and can affect sensitive electronics and radio
I have one of these inside a glass globe Fos ceiling light.
When I use it I hear no effect on sound but it makes the IR remote unpredictable, including the volume going all the way to max on one occasion. Itās worse when the lightās first turned onā¦ I didnāt expect an LED lamp to have any effect on IR, especially from within a glass ball but experience says otherwise. Itās a pain changing the lamp in that light so something that doesnāt blow every 6 months seemed like a good idea.
Hi Simon, A bit off topic but is there any way to make the zigbee lamps work without buying a gateway?
I bought a few of the osram ones that were reduced in price, not realising I would need an expensive gateway to make them work. I assumed being wifi that they would work via a free app and my wireless router. If they canāt be made to work then I will just use them as normal manually operated led lamps.
No you need a specific zigbee gateway with the right authentication for your devices. The radio protocols and network protocols are very different from Wifi.
Ok, I thought it seemed like it couldnāt be done without a gateway but its good to have it confirmed by someone who understands it. Thank you. Guess I now have a few more spare dumb led lamps
I have using LED lights in the entire house for about two years now and I did not notice any degradation of the sound quality of my system or any problems with remote controls or radio reception. The only thing I have noticed is a noticeable drop in my electricity consumption!
Yes, they were awful things. The lighting industry seems to be compensating for how dim they were by making LEDs really bright. Iāve never come across fluorescent lights (compact or not) what werenāt horribly noisy, and Iām gkad to see the back of them.
The difference now is that lightbulbs are required to display lumen output not tungsten wattage equivalent, regarding which CFLs only applied when new and fully warm (and I did have occasion to make some formal checks on the clains of some when they spfirst became popular), while in the early days of LED lighting there seemed to be a lot of imaginative āequivalenceā claims. You still need to be aware of differences in dispersion, but now far better. Just stupid prices if you buy from the likes of B&Q, while longevity claims may be rather excessive, certainly with higher power lights if they donāt have adequate airflow, and low voltage bulbs if not fed with the appropriate voltage or current regulated supply (depending on design) - which can be a problem when fitted as replacements for transformer-fed 12v tungsten lamps.
Iāve been fully LED converted for about 8 years now, though none radio controlled, and have never noticed any difference in sound quality when lights are on in the house compared to off.
The LED light in our kitchen is not a very pleasing color. @Simon-in-Suffolk do you use bulbs that you can control color output? Iām thinking about that for our kitchen so that in the evening itās not quite so blue and āharshā
White LEDs are available (in UK anyway) in warm white and cool white. Cool white is good for food preparation etc and warm white is nicer for ambient lighting.
What I do is use warm white for overhead lighting in the kitchen but cool white for the downlighters over worktops etc.
I could just buy a warmer color bulbā¦but thinking Iād over-engineer it with color adjustable bulbs Depending on time of day, I seem to prefer warmer vs cooler
There are 3 common fairly standard colour temperatures for LEDs, cold white, something like 7000k, cool white aka natural white, typically 4000k, and warm white, typically 2700 or 3000k.
The cold white is quite a blue white, and I think rather unpleasant in the home. I use natural white in the kitchen, bathrooms and hall, and find it pretty effective. It is pretty much indistinguishable from daylight in a sunny room, e.g if you put the lights on at the far end for added brightness. In bedrooms I have warm white, and in the music room and other lounge I have warm white in side lights, and natural white in overhead lights for when I need to see better.
The warm whites in particular can be quite variable in colour from brand to brand (as were CFLs), some quite āartificialā and unpleasant with sometimes a greenish tinge (as were many CFLs), and odd if mixed. Iāve also seen āvery warm whiteā, 2500k IIRC, which was very orange. Dialing up a yellowish colour using RGB leds doesnāt give a natural looking tungsten effect, or at least not that Iāve seen, though of course gives a wealth of other possibilities.
I agree 4000k is perfect for bathrooms and kitchens and 2700k is fairly close to traditional tungsten lamps in colour good for living rooms and bedrooms. I find the 6000k lamps give a bluish light which is quite unpleasant to my eyesā¦ perhaps this is dependant on makes. I use Crompton and LAP bulbs.
I have most lamps in the 4000k range, but in the lounge I have seven x GU10 ceiling down-lighters with 2700k Some of the 4000kās but all the 2700ās are on dimmers. They all turn a slight yellow hue when fully dimmed but the 2700kās are particularly nice as its more gold than yellow, perfect for mellow listening.
And before anyone asks, the dimmers donāt cause any noise or negative effects with the SQ in any way that I can detect.