Remove drive unit to get access to internal xover to disable and wire drive units directly to rear inputs
I’ve revised my opinion on the Keilidh in the room …
Exploring further …
Try ovators
Got this information from a local dealer about how to make the 119 active.
“Thank you for the email.
The 119 cross over can be configured as passive or active by swapping jumpers internally within the speaker and removing the external links (this is something we do for you).
Once the speaker is in active mode it can be driven by two Selekt Power out cartridges and two stereo dac modules (standard, Katalys or Organik). ONce all the physical connections have been made the Selekt DSM is configured in the Linn Manage Systems configuration tool to set the correct filter for the amps.”
DG…
Try ovators
Been there done that got the badge .
Yes, but I guess this is via the exact engine within the DSM.
Yes. Assuming that the exact engine does the work. Then the Stereo Amp Power Amps delvers to each driver.
Presume the 150s are similar, but you need three of.
DG…
I guess it will be too early … is there anyone who has already listened to the 119?
Probably soon:
I am hoping to hear them soon though and here in the Cabin.
I’m not saying what amp was driving as that’s of no consequence
I disagree. I’ve found all parts of the upstream chain are important. When I demoed passive SCM40s I didn’t feel an 250DR was really up to driving them. Not tried them with NC 250 so I’ll reserve judgment on that, but I have heard them with ATC’s own P1 power amp and that came closer to hitting the spot. But of course it’s the actives where the action really starts!
Roger
But with all due respect from my point of view it was how the speakers compared under the same amplification ,modest amplification .
Under both linn and Naim amps I’ve got the same results
I don’t want a speaker that dictates the amplifier , they are of similar price points ,ok 800 appart. They are not cheap by any standards .
If the speaker can’t operate optimally ( in passive mode) with for example a 6k power amp it’s of no interest to me .
The difference in the speakers is laughable.
is that now… good or bad?
The difference in the speakers is laughable.
In what way ?
Perhaps I should fill in some background( if anyone cares ) to why I’m even here,talking about speakers when I’m a self confessed Keltik fan .
Some may know I went on a journey of creating a room dedicated to playing music ,having as much or little kit filling , to allow my lounge to return to being a lounge ( with ability to play music when required for group enjoyment ).
But .my smaller room just does not work with the Keltiks , the Bass is just too strong too low ,I guess because the walls are all too close etc . And strangling them by turning all the “knobs” back just wasted their ability .
So I need a speaker more suited to the space .
But when you have been used to a full 4 Naim NC250 drivin active setup ,where do you go .
My dealer was good enough to come to my house and give a diagnostic on what’s going on and confirm in my mind the issues .
And hence my search for replacements .
Hi @Keltik - sorry to hear that the Keltiks do not work for you. I’ve heard these wonderful speakers several times back in the days and always driven by a stack of 4 Klouts … wonderful!
Very eager to hear what you will end up with … at least I think I want to give the 119 a try with an additional Power-Out / Organik fitted in the Selekt.
Just curious, do you think the Keltiks failed due to lack of bass control, or perhaps your room has a standing wave that you’re hoping to fix with SO?
I did consider sinking money into an Exaktbox10 , unfortunately it’s difficult to demo such things .
The Keltiks have a much more " fruity" bass than for example Isobariks which I also have Active.
They are now back in the lounge with a work around using a single Nap160 sounding like Keltiks should ( a story for another day )
But trying new modern speakers shows how technology has progressed especially in the cohesion and integration of multiple drive units .