Hello, I know this is a Naim forum but so many of you own the Linn Lp12 turntable,I have recently been looking at upgrades for a new build keeping some of the original parts, one of which is the subject of this post, the sub majik chassis, I have kept the ittok lv111 tonearm and upgraded the main bearing to the karousel I already have the majik sub chassis and have been advised this is potentially a weak link and the Kore is the one to have, now I’ve been pondering before I spend £800 surely the tonearm is bolted directly through the arm board to the magik sub chassis, surely just from and engineering point admittedly the kore has a bonded arm board but the tonearm is only mounted by the same 3 bolts the rest of the arm board is purely cosmetic or to mount the tonearm rest such as on the ittok this is also bolted through the arm board and magic sub chassis improving rigidity, so why is the difference between the kore and the majik so pronounced is it anybody spending £800 doesn’t want to admit it is snake oil or is the difference night and day, I’m confused is it the material the arm board is make of, that’s the only explanation I can come up with, what do you guys think.
Kore goes up to £912 after Jan 1st
Get your order in.
Kore is a night and day upgrade to the old sub system.
I’m not sure about the Kore, but I can heartily recommend the use of full stops, capital letters and paragraphs.
Have a look at a Stack Audio Serene Sub Chassis. 3 to choose from at sensible prices. From most accounts they perform very well.
Yes i can see it would be over the coffin shaped sub chassis as the arm was only secured to the arm board and 3 small screws so it had a potential to vibrate but the majik is full width with the arm bolted directly to the sub chassis, still not convinced did you upgrade from the early or majik sub, regards Neil
Ok my punctuation and grammar isn’t the best but my eyesight is limited so I do my best.
I assumed obviously incorrectly this was a help forum not for sarcasm and ridicule I will immediately cancel any further posts and wish to a good day.
I am certain that the vast majority of people here would be saddened by this incident and would be flattered to offer you their support.
Hello and thank you.
@Neil1956
Hi
Yes I upgraded from the old system to Kore I’m not sure if the Majik sub was a thing at that time but I do remember keeping the DNA complete and having the Kore was a big upgrade.
I now have a Keel and although is better still it’s percentage of improvement over the kore was not as much.
Hope this helps and don’t sink the ship for a haporth of tar.
Keep it real and enjoy. 
Hello, and thank you for your reply, my dilemma is that I have a very nice ittock Lv3 mk one and if I do go for the kore it means drilling out the arm board for the rest, which means to avoid this I would probably have to upgrade to the ekos, which in turn makes it quite a lot more expensive, hence my questioning the benefits of the majik to kore. Regards Neil.
Hi Neil, My LP12 is similar to yours, standard subchassis, Valhalla, LVII, Cirkus. I wrote to Linn and asked them what to do next. They said power supply.
Hope that helps, though you may have Lingo etc already.
Chris
The Kore is well worth having but only you can decide if it’s worth it to you. I have an Ittok LVII so I’ve had to have the armboard drilled - just one of those things. 
Hi Neil,
are you doing this work yourself, or going to a Linn LP12 dealer?
Often, when there is a dilemma of what to upgrade first or in what order, it’s a good idea to get advice from a dealer, and let him also do the work. It doesn’t necessarily cost more, ofter the dealer will have pre-owned parts that cost less than new, and parts such as subframes don’t wear out so just as good as new.
Also dealers are good to advise what to spend a given budget on, and with an LP12 there is a big combination of parts so this can get confusing. Dealers also experience working on LP12s thousands of times, so the build and set-up quality will be better than DIY, even if you are a competent engineer.
Hope your Ittok is a good one, many worn ones out there, a dealer can check it for you.
Anyway you can see where i’m going with this
Hello thank you for the link to the Linn video, it has answered all of my questions, I have decided to Use the Majik chassis which as the video suggests offers improvement over the old style coffin sub chassis perhaps not up to kore standards but at least I will not mind drilling out the replaceable arm board for the ittok, I intend at the same time as the build by my local dealership to get my recently purchased 250 amp and the lingo one serviced, and it gives me opportunity to upgrade when I find a nice used ekos, thank you all again.
Hello I have as you suggested purchased a few used parts from dealers such as the ittock arm and Lingo, I am getting the turntable assembled by the dealer then any parts which don’t pass muster can be replaced, kind regards and thank you for your help.
I did post a Linn YouTube video which explains the design of Keel and Kore but seems to have been deleted. The video explains the experiments Linn conducted on various materials and linkage between arm board and sub chassis. You can find the video by using the following search terms
“David Williamson de Kore”
Hi, welcome. There is a also a different school of thought on these matters.
Propagated by the Dutch main LP12 specialist and following Linn’s own upgrade hierarchy:
PSU first, then bearing, subchassis, tonearm, cartridge.
In your case this would mean a Lingo4 with Karousel bearing and Majik subchassis would be the first order of things.
VP Revolution onboard PSU if funds do not allow the above.
Add Trampolin over no base or Solid Base.
Contrary with more funds available, or for later stage, switch Majik to Kore subchassis. (Although I would personally upgrade PSU again to Radikal before the subchassis)
Anything beyond basic arm and cart follows later.
Please keep in mind that this approach is not shared by everyone, which makes sense as there are many different sound preferences, but certainly by many.
As said by others already, demos and good relations with a reputable specialist will do wonders for your LP12 happiness. Good luck, enjoy!
Linn’s Akurate spec comes with a Kore & Lingo and not a Majik & Radikal.
This makes sense to me
Indeed, when I mentioned Linn hierarchy I was mostly putting emphasis on Karousel and Lingo4 first. The rest is what my own ears tell me when I compare Akurate vs Majik with Radikal upgrade (only) at a comparable price point.
I just wanted to make the OP aware of alternatives to putting Kore first, not opening a can of worms. This really comes down to personal preference!