I have a log burner so this isn’t a dig at other users of log burners, but burning down the forests in log burners must be about the most non eco efficient or common sense way to heat ourselves possible.
Plant a tree thats suitable for burning in a log burner and see how long it is before you can light you fire, and then see how long that one trees supply of wood lasts. Nice to have as a feature but simply not sensible as a means of keeping your home warm.
My wood comes from a tree surgery business, they are expected to remove the fellings…….it is a substantial amount they collect per week. It would most likely be burnt to get rid of it……but not enough for commercial use as wood chippings.
Yes; it isn’t finished completely until it has an SBL each side of it
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Will be interesting to hear the audio acoustic differences compared to the old open fireplace with the wood surround. Many folk don’t like an open fire chimney between the speakers.
The wallpaper will differ too, an upgrade to Wallrock Thermal Liner almost 4mm thick -
and then with a paintable patten Anaglypta paper stuck on top.
Apart from the quoted thermal benefits this liner has sound insulating properties that i am confident can improve audio sound.
Bought a few dozen nets of kiln dried beech a few weeks ago which were similar in pricing to last year - loose had already rocketed price wise. The netted stuff has just gone up by around £2 per bag 40% rise approx.
It’s been very chilly the last week or so, and I’ve been starting to use up some anthracite and peat. The peat in particular is excellent. I’m finding wood doesn’t seem to stay in overnight as well as a few years ago but I’m probably trying to ensure cleaner burns with wood.
Are those cleaning logs any good?
How about that powder by Stovax?
Seem to work in between sweep visits…….very little comes down the flu when we have a sweep. Not tried the powder.
We use high calorific reconstituted wood, aka as hotties here… fantastic heat, low ash, low moisture and efficient hot burn with minimum tarring… a local hardware store drops them off by the palette load for my log store…
-2 to -3 here tonight and appreciated them in the log burner… it is a lovely crisp clear night… it certainly feels like winter.
Our Air Source Heat Pump ran all night to keep the bedrooms at 18C. If they get too cold it would never reach 18C for getting up! It used 26kWh of electric roughly double compared to before the freezing conditions (average temperature has changed from 6c to -2c).
The downstairs dropped from 21c to 18c overnight so I must light the wood burner soon. It has been the only source of heat running 13 hours a day. The wood has been free and should last even if colder this winter than last.
The downside of a chalet is the eves make increasing the insulation impossible without stripping the roof. In January the eve cupboards will be insulated meaning we loose 26m x 1m of storage.
Phil
Only the second burn in my new stove.
(Fortunately only a slight pong of hardening enamel paint.)
Still trying to get to grips with the operation of it. It has three air sliders: primary, secondary, and a thirdary (tertiary). Blimey eh?
Seem to have it going either rip roaring away mode, or dark and smouldering…
I’ll get the hang of it soon enough i’m sure ![]()
WRT ‘paint smells’ they should diminish I’d imagine.
We have Clearview stoves in boring standard finish however if we don’t use them for 7-10 days they always seem to give off a pong for a few hours - I’ve wondered if it might be the visible part of the flue not the stoves?
Did the installers ‘fire it up’ at installation Debs?
Ours did which was great to show it worked, however as mentioned I thought that would have cured any paint jobs but we still get the pongs if the stove isn’t used for several days.
Apart from today, all it’s had is one ‘test burn’ which lasted less than an hour.
The fitter tested the flue emissions while this happened, and the results passed okay.
I had some guy pop up on facebook today……he bought a new stove. He had measured room particulates before and after. From memory an average of 7 mg/cu metre pre install. During curing this was up to 300mg and kept going down over 5 burns. The burn sessions being cool to start up to normal hot use. Particulates were then about 15 to 20 mg per cu metre. I think in amongst that high reading is a lot of solvents….we had a summer install, the windows were open.
Having three air inlet options sound like a plus.
The Clearview stoves we have only have two - the first is generally designed to get air beneath the fuel when you start the stove up to ensure it catches well and can be dialled back once you have a good fire. The second (at least on Clearview stoves) is described as an ‘airwash’ which brings air warmed through the stove walls over the glass to help keep it clean.
The 3rd air inlet I believe is generally holes at the back of the firebox allowing fresh superheated air to combust the smoke coming off the fuel for extra heat output.
All variants on a theme I guess, but there is certainly an art to these things.
Do you get any pongs when you use the Clearview for the first time in Autumn/Winter or maybe after a gap on colder Spring nights?
Yes……that first night of the year. But not too bad, a slight new odour again which is odd as we have had it for 15 years or so.
Just thinking….i really like running a log stove, almost like the ceremony of putting on a cd or album😁
I would say let it roar until the chamber gets hot enough and then shut both. If you shut them too soon it will smoke.
Just my guess. Don’t know about the third.
Phil
The instructions only say to Pull the tertiary air slider out by approximately 50%
I think the tertiary slider maybe an adjustment dependent upon the individual characteristics of the direct air supply to the stove, plus vicinity of dwelling, altitude, draught of chimney etc (?) …find its sweet spot and leave it there.
Instructions also say that; When the fire has become established, close the primary air (marked with a single hole) down by pushing the lever inwards.
and:
The burning rate can be altered by moving the secondary air slider (marked with a double hole) - push the lever inwards to close down and pull outwards to increase the burn rate.
That seems similar to what I do.
The current weather is quite trying. In the morning after 12 hours of heating our large lounge till 10pm, I need to bring the temperature up from 18c to 21c. It needs to burn quite fiercely. In general it needs more from both controls to keep the room at 21c than in warmer weather (6-8c outside). Your modern house should not need as much heat.
Phil



