Specifically bearing oil. How often, how do you know?
I decided the oil on the spindle looks quite ‘dry’ and as I’ve probably not had an oil change in years, picked some up today.
I assume there is no need to clean out the bearing housing - there is a video online where someone seems to repeatedly clean the housing with tissue to get the dirty oil out - surely this would only introduce fluff from the tissue? Maybe use ‘QTips’ ?
I think I’ll pass on turning it upside down! Even if it was harmless I’d fuzz it up!
The instructions with the oil make no mention of cleaning the bearing housing - seems to be a case of adding oil, sticking inner platter back in, spinning with tissue to collect overflow and repeat if no oil on tissue. I guess if you oiled it regularly it would simply dilute out the old oil, assuming it’s bad in the first place!
Thanks dan - that’s the one I saw and I think at the 3 min 20 sec mark when theer’s a shot into the housing I get the impression there’s some ‘lint’ in there. I may be wrong, perhaps that’s what Linn recommend the dealers do, for the rest of us topping up may be the best approach!
With the TMS Roksan used to supply long cotton buds for cleaning the main bearing, you were supposed to check that there was a mark on the cotton showing you’d reached all the way down, then you added more oil. I think Vertere do the same as when I picked up my TMS from Touraj last year there were new cotton buds and oil in the packaging.
I did not do this with stuff attached. Just a bearing with sub-chassis. But It might be difficult with a Keel. Mine is still an old fashioned glued sub-chassis.
I only did this when I had to do a complete rebuild.
I do not want to put a foreign object into the bearing because a loose fiber might get in.
Don’t think Linn recommend using anything to remove the old oil to avoid any contamination in the housing. Just remove the outer and inner platters plug the bearing with the original cap or similar etc. Secure the arm with some low tack masking tape and turn the deck slowly upside down, remove the cap and let the old oil drain out overnight. If your careful it should not upset the suspension setting as there’s no load on it.
My own LP12 is presently sitting upside down overnight draining the old oil into a small foil tray. A suitable home made jig makes this job (and suspension adjustment access) very easy.
This is interesting advice that I’ve not noticed before. I don’t think I’ve ever known an arm to be removed for transportation by either myself or a dealer in many decades of transporting my turntables…