Mains cables upgrade - astonished with improvement

Where can I find this instructions? Is there a Link?

What in this picture claims so? There is nothing stated related to this in music line instructions.

You’re probably right. I’ve only just assumed it be the case.
Those cables that powers the rails looks to be between first and second slot, would that mean that its a tie as to which slot is ”closest” to the powercable? :slight_smile:

The L, N & E wires are just soldered onto the buss bars at different positions around the 1st & 2nd socket positions, not at the end of the buss.

Great discussion and thanks for the responses. Yes indeed, I do wonder what something better than what is the entry level mains cable might do for the system.

I was loaned a Tellurium one a while ago but at the time I didn’t think £700+ was justifiable.

In terms of what deserves the best power feed, I’m inclined to think it’d be the 200 on the basis that it’s the one component that only gets ‘straight’ power rather than via an intermediate PS.

If you’re going up to the £700 level for mains cables you should give a Naim powerline a chance though I’d probably go for Fraim first, at least the Lite except for the CDX2 which does benefit greatly from the full version.

When I got my first Naim powerline, after running in in on the popwer amp, I tried it on every Naim box in my system except the PSC and settled on the digital source component, which at the time was a CD5x with a Flatcap 2x powering the analog circuits, of those two I’d have expected the analog side to benefit most but it was actually the digital that got the most out of it. Later when I had a few more powerlines I put one on the PSC, though I forget which box I robbed, probably the power amp as that’s where I felt the effectiveness was most marginal (a bit more weight and control but my speakers were fairly well behaved in that area already). What I do remember is that the powerline stayed on the PSC and it took a while to buy another.

I’ve used Olson PDU products for years. A professional British company producing power distribution products mainly for the professional studio environment. I run my Naim and other kit from an Olson ‘Sounds Fantastic’ audio PDU. Lovely sound quality, it takes out the noise and spikes from the mains feed. I use the supplied Naim power leads!

My wife has a 100% record on spotting the difference between original (i.e. 80s) CD pressings and modern remasters. She barely looks up from her book and gets it right on a blind test within seconds. She doesn’t describe it like anyone here would, but just as ‘That one’s better. The other one just sounded like noise’.

She also doesn’t care in the slightest, bless her.

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Obviously in the U.K. there are favorite brands. In the US, Japan (very astute listeners there) other parts of Europe, The Shunyata Research products are considered top shelf. If you can get a couple of the Delta series, or even the entry level Venom series I think you’ll be quite surprised. Also you might find it easier to find higher end Audioquest power cords. The least expensive of the Storm series the Thunder are also really really good.

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Ebor - Which does she prefer? 80s or modern remasters?

Always the original pressing!

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Based on my experience (25+ years) with naim and non-naim equipment usually good enough power cords + power strip (not necessarily expensive but carefully chosen) can make clearly better job than “better” speaker or IC cables. I agree that e.g. Shunyata, Siltech, Acrolink etc. “anakondas” or “crowns” for thousands of $/EUR/GBP are definitely overpriced and targeted rather for jewelry hunters than common man but in principle - it works. A stellar power cord will not replace e.g. additional power supply for streamer or cd however good power cords (and strip) can take a system to a next level. Obviously there is no substitute for poorly configured system but frankly, this is not about naim sets mostly thoughtfully designed and configured.
And one more thing, some audio freaks prefer direct connections - wall to device/s, without a power strip but it requires more than one wall socket.

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