Mains extension blocks

Strange question, a fair chunk of overkill, but yes of course it’ll work. Why not keep the kettle lead ?

I’ve bought both LAPP and Belden mains lead kits from MCRU, they both work, the only observations I offer - both work by connecting the shield at the mains plug only. The Belden has an earth drain wire and is slightly more flexible. The LAPP is slightly thicker (11.1mm) not so easy to fit in the cord grip and you have to unravel the braid to make the earth connection.
There is a brief review of two Belden cables on hifi advice dot com.

I am concerned with safety when the braid is teased out & used to connect to the E pin, I’ve seen the fine braid ‘hairs’ get loose.
In my previous life the standard practice was to insert a length of 1mm copper wire 5cm down the braid & insulate the open section in the 13A plug with green/yellow sleeving.

Maybe I will just leave it. It sounds bloody good tonight.

i was having a high pitch sound from my speakers… i referred to it else where in the community.

Its gone now.

I took power from an adjacent power socket which has a 4 mm incoming 3 core wire. This was connected to the Air Conditioner ( AC ) .

Called an electrician home.

Disconnected the AC and am using the 4 mm incoming onto a 15A socket to power a Belkin power strip ( GBP 12 here in India )

I am using a normal Belkin 6 socket power strip but with one modification.

The standard Belkin has a 0.75 sq mm x 3 wire - mains lead.

I replaced this with a 3 x 1.5 sq mm mains lead.

i wanted to use a 3 x 2.5 sq mm mains lead but the diameter of the wore would be large and would not fit into the Belkin power strip.

Now - no more high pitch noise of any kind.

I also replaced the stock SN2 power cord with a thicker 1.5 sq mm x 3 core cable and a locally available IEC connector.

Same for the subwoofer mains cable too.

The low level resolution has improved.

Its amazing how these things improve the music delivery.

This is a temp arrangement as i need to look into correct positioning of my phono stage so as not to interfere with vinyl playback but thats for another day - once my record player us up and running.

belkin

regards

:small_blue_diamond: Mpw,…I have to give you some more work :wink:.
Remove the power switch on your powerstrip.
This is not good for the sound quality,…Or use a different powerstrip.

/Peder :slightly_smiling_face:

Hey Peder, i don’t know why but for me my cisco loves the hifi powerblock.

Peder

Thank you

This arrangement is temporary

Ordered Hubbell HBL5266C USA type plugs and once they arrive i will switchover to wiremold L10320 power strip - no switch or and no lights and no filter of any kind.

I did one asinine thing though - a few months ago i shortened the mains lead on the wiremold from 6 ft to 3 ft and now i am repenting.

I opened the wiremold power strip and i find that it is so well made that its impractical to remove the mains lead from the power strip ( i was trying to change the mains lead to a longer lead )

I have to figure out a way out of this… else sell this wiremold and get a new one

stupid of me…

anyways - one learns the hard way…sometimes

I am now an official power strip junkie :smile:

regards

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acstrip

:small_blue_diamond: Mpw,…Then we are two :grin:,…I am in the process of building my own PowerStrip with Oyaide and Furutech sockets.

I will also use US-sockets,even though I live in Sweden.

Looked at the ones you will be using…see pictures,…they look interesting.
Stereophile has written about this Wiremold L 10320 PowerStrip with links to Naim,…do not know if you seen the writing.

Search for “Wiremold L 10320” and you will find it.

/Peder :slightly_smiling_face:

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Why ? that seems illogical, US voltage standard is 120V Sweden is 230V
As a USA standard its not approved in Sweden & I would be concerned how your house insurance would consider that.


:small_blue_diamond:Mpw,…I will use the US-sockets you see at the top right of the box.


These are Oyaide P and C 079 gold.
I have been inspired by this project,when I got to know a new hifi friend 2-3 months ago.

He has been used this kind of special contacts for a long time,…and has lots of “goodies” in his boxes :grin:.
He said that there should apparently be musical differences between Gold,…Rhodium,…Silver and Beryllium contacts.
It should in any case be interesting to see,…if I can experience that difference.


Oyaide M1 and F1 Beryllium,…Oyaides best contacts.
These can I borrow and try from my new hifi friend.
They are quite expensive £600:-,so nothing you just gamble on,and run and buy.

/Peder🙂

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IHCK092B
:black_small_square:Furutech Shuko-contact

acousticrevivertp4_6-2_2
:black_small_square:US-contact,…powerstrip Acoustic Revive.

:small_blue_diamond: Mike-B,…What is not done for the soundquality :grin:,…No just kidding.
But I understand what you mean.

I and another hifi friend are building two different PowerStrips,…one with US-sockets and one with Shuko-sockets.
Shuko is standard in Sweden for example,(see picture).

This is to see,…if there is any difference in music quality between US and Shuko.
I know many people who use these “Acoustic Revive US” Powerstrips in Sweden (see picture).

They claim that US-sockets sound better.
Therefore,…we will now try and test this.

When also my new HiFi friend,had all these contacts,as you see in the box of the picture in previous posts.
Well,…then it was just to get started with the project😁.

/Peder :slightly_smiling_face:

I am just concerned using a USA standard.
US sockets sound ‘better’ OK (sceptical OK) I’ve seen some of this around forums & Sweden is probably the most enthusiastic about this kinda stuff.

I would be more concerned (in Sweden) to have a non-reversible (phase) plug/socket arrangement & ITR the USA Type B does that. But in Europe the CEE 7/7 plug & 7/5 socket will give you this feature & comply to EU safety standards.

I am not ‘knocking’ you over building your own power strip, I build as much of my stuff as I can. Unfortunately I have to comply to the UK stnd & the fused plugs, but outside that I use simple but quality materials, & I really do not accept the plugs/socket with gold, rhodium & beryllium. Silver is the best conductor & that is undeniable physics.

This is my power block, it’s made specifically to ‘hide’ inside a cabinet. LAPP Olflex CY100 2.5mm, MS HD Power 13A plug, MK unswitched sockets are for the audio, the switched one is for other purposes that I no longer use. The blank boxes are a state secret.

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As a bulk property, Silver is be best conductor, however this is a different situation. Its two materials, one the plug and the other the socket and they are in contact in an atmosphere of humidity, acid rain, industrial gasses etc. The results could be different. Even if both are silver, the results could be different long term.

Bailyhill

@Mike B

I find many of my audio friends using USA plugs and sockets too…

Nobody makes cables ( audio variety ) with the plug configuration we have in India

In UK and USA there are many choices with regard to power cables and plugs and sockets and i for one can vouch - i hear a difference.

Your point is understandable though…

sometimes audiophilia is not …:grin:

best regards
mpw

Is Naim’s PowerLine Lite supposed to be used with Naim products only or can it be used with other brands as well? I have an Anthem MRX300 AV receiver and was thinking of getting a Lite for it instead of the factory supplied cable.

no problem

Works well on some other equipment. I used one on my Artemis turntable ps untill replaced with a full fat version, was disasterous on Rega DAC.

Its a standard IEC320 cable, a moulded C13 plug & a Naim designed UK 13A plug. It will fit anything with a C14 plug/socket .

SamClaus

Jan 28

Tried the AM test, the Hicap DR was one of the worst offenders in the room (apart from wifi, etc.), beaten only by a non-Naim PSU…

Some (Simon, Richard) suggested the problem might lie with the mains - so I bought a Musicworks Matrix, and a second-hand Powerline. It seems to have done the trick: I can only hear a faint hum from the HiCap. I have yet to try the AM radio test - and I will have to listen very carefully to decide whether the sound has improved. I expect the improvement, if there is one, to be only marginal - but such is the nature of hifi that it’s the sum of marginal improvements that counts.