I went with a Wireworld 6 way, solid construction, add advantage (or disadvantage) does not come with an IEC lead
So is it safe for me to assume that this is the devil’s own creation…? Currently I have one of these powering my uniti 2, Sennheiser hdvd800, av amp, sub, tv and dvd recorder. My nap250dr has a wall socket of its own.
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Apparently yes though, tbh, I’ve been using one for a few years 
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Removed my Supra LoRad surgeprotector and played some music😀. Fantastic! Here I have had some issues with to much bass sometines, thougt it was standing waves🤨
Tried a record that I know is problematic in my room: The bassthump were gone. So many years with that crap!
Thank you Richard for the tip😀
How can this be?
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I bought it on the recommendation of a well known ‘hifi’ publication. Not noticed any degradation in sq but then I was using a surge protected extension block previously. 
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@ChrisSU, I plan to also change lighting over to entirely LED. I hope it doesn’t break forum rules if you could advise the brand of LED lamps you found that were the least noisy.
Totally agree with Richard, Power Line Adapters (Homeplugs and the like) really don’t get on with sensitive electronics… the RF they generate radiates horribly (I spent some time with Ofcom investigating this a few years ago)… and is in a part of the RF spectrum that can interfere with audio circuitry sensitivity, broadcast radio and broadband signal to noise (ie can cause a higher noise profile assigned to your line and reduced speeds)… luckily they appear to be on the way out as Wifi and consumer mesh solutions are becoming fashionable and generally perform more effectively.
They don’t do any harm in my system. Alarmingly made no difference when I removed them just now. Money well spent
I think it depends on the type of surge protection you use. The Russ Andrews Mega Clamp Ultra I use to protect the XX2 from having fried windings (yes, it happened once!) transformed the system: clarity sweetness, depth and detail, and has been an important part of the system ever since. Like Doing the whole system in one go!
Short answer: Yes.
I have an earlier version on an AV system at work with an Arcam amp. On another AV system with just a griddle style Rega Brio I use a Russ Andrews extension lead. The latter sounds so much better, and it’s only 2.1 as oppose to 7.1.
You could always charge your phone from your MB whilst it is charging…
That’s what I use.
Try to give them and listen. Wasn’t impressed by the Musicworks, despite its lovely looks. Haven’t auditioned the Vibex.
these 2 are mains blocks with no filtering or conditioning. Good reviews on different forums and under 1k. I hope to try before of course and return if not satisfied. But not in a hurry now.
My god, seven. You have a bit of work to get through. Good luck and look forward to your findings.
I also have 2 powerline adapters as well, and one of them on my Muso QB in the kitchen area, but I’m having trouble with it connecting to Wi Fi.
I haven’t read the whole thread so forgive me if it’s already been mentioned but Olson make very good power blocks get one without an led light though. I bought mine on eBay and it had an led which I disconnected and I have never had issue with it but for my Naim I use a Graham’s Hydra.
Personally I try and stay away from wifi as much as possible. It always seems to have something going not quite right. e.g. trying to go from router in the living straight into the kitchen next door. 256K MP3 is okay but anything faster and it breaks up. This is only for a radio in the kitchen so not a problem with the MP3 but…
The new meshing units that are all the rage are essentially repeaters… each repeat reduces the speed. I agree some are better than others if they have dual backbone radios but normally even then it’s not great because that is using the same band (typically 5GHz) and also this same band is often used for the client connections. Most domestic mesh units only use the lower non-DFS wifi 5GHz bands. This is enough for one 80MHz 11ac channel (PHY speed max 400meg but true throughput a lot lower) so if that one channel is being used for backbone repeating and also client connections then, obviously, there are going to be compromises. The other issue with mesh units is you have to put them close enough so that they can see each other and get a good signal. So you’re using mesh because the wifi is poor so then the units have to go close together so more issues with interference, channel usage and, of course, cost!
I wouldn’t have them in my house! If I really must have wifi in a remote location and I don’t want to go powerline then I’d run a proper lan cable around the outside of the house; so through the wall where the router or switch is and then round and through the wall again to a proper wall cat5 socket. Then connect a good quality AP to the cat5 socket. It will be cheaper than going the mesh route and a LOT faster and more reliable and only take a couple of hours.
Well if you have about $3000 to chuck away on a non filtering mains block, you can always try this:
