Thanks … so if I put one of these on my wife’s hair straighteners it might stop my 250 humming?! 
Mark
It might. The humming might be a dc offset making a transformer buzz, in which case it will not help.
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Hi, outside of my experience I have never used ferrite block, I’m not saying I am adverse to trying the, how about treating the wife to a haircut😁
Haha! That’s by far the most expensive option 
Ah interesting! I know exactly the one you mean, I’ve got a couple kicking about. Will give this a shot on the weekend. Thanks 
Hello
I moved house about six months ago and for a few weeks, had the odd ‘pop’ from the fridge.
I got a local sparks in and got him to add a dedicated feed from the distribution board to 4 un-switched sockets in the room where my kit lives.
Problem solved and no need for filters etc.
Sparks also confirmed it would be pretty easy (for him) to add additional sockets as/when/if more power outlets required.
Hi thanks for help, unfortunately solid floors and just had living room plastered and decorated so in a few years your idea might be an option but for now I have to live with how it is, domestic harmony is unfortunately more important than musical harmony 
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In my experience, there is nothing like a dedicated electrical line and breaker from the main box. Considering how much money I spent on HIFI component, it is not that much of a investment. By the way get a 20 amp circuit.
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Why a 20 amp circuit?
For further use. The day when I would decide to buy more Energy hungry component. I suggest that you make the sum in Watt of the electrical Energy of all the component you want on a single circuit to convince you.
Example of one of my setup. XS3 = 350 W + OPPO 35 W + DENON AVR 660 W + SUB ± 100 W + TV 120 W + TV Box 10 W + 2 lights 120 W = 1395 W.
In Canada, a circuit of 15 AMP on 115 V = 1725 W of power. The security of use is 80 % of 1725 W = 1380 W.
That is the Reason for calculating the capacity of all the components. That is why a decided to add a dedicated circuit of 20 AMP. I know that some people go as far as 30 AMP.
But the principle advantage is to get the curent only to the sensitive HIFI component. I prefer this to all sort of «cleaning» gadget whit or without surge protection.
This is only my experience. Have a good day.
Hello, first of all on the post I started I suggested a cheap way of reducing or stopping noise from domestic fridge, which worked for me, I appreciate any suggestions or help, a uk a single spur of 2.5 twin and Earth can theoretically provide 20 amps current, I have not discounted any ideas or suggestions, I have replied as your sigh out comment seemed a little abrupt, regards Neil.
Still, this is just my personnal experience. I did not mean to offense anyone. In a forum, you are suppose to take what you want kindly and gently. Good music to you.
I have different sized cheap ferrite clamps on all kitchen and laundry-room machines and use a cheap but good filter block on both tv/entertainment system and computers. These things are really cheap as chips to source out and try. Imho it really helps! Now if I could get the electricals to sound as good on weekdays as it do on the weekends, got to start my own grid I suppose 
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Most cables? Not what I have seen on domestic electricals generally, though ferrites are fairly frequent on feeds to common EMI generating things like computers and TVs.
What make and model?
I have a dedicated breaker for my hi-fi and it did make a big improvement to sound quality.
My power amps (Cyrus Mono X300) have a quoted burst power of 1500W so I asked for the spur to be have kitchen cooker wiring. Of course it only does this for micro-seconds when the music is loud!
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Brand APC, made by Schneider I believe. Im in EU so its Schuko plugs
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