MusicWorks Mains

It,s much tighter control of the bass and midrange, gives a better more coherent sound and vocals just sound more natural. If you try one……i don’t think it will go back. I think Signals are the only G4 dealer, they are supply constrained for selling to all dealers.

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I’d strongly advise that you do the mains first. For say £500 it will very likely make more of a difference than £4,000 of block and Powerlines.

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Yep. Well worth it for any system, but even more important to getting the best from a system at your level. You may also find the system sounds better without the ISOL-8 mains conditioner too.

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The Isol-8 doesn’t degrade the sound to my ears - but it doesn’t really improve it, and it’s a pretty bulky old thing…

…I bought it originally because I knew that the mains was going to be noisy (for example, I have 64 Phillips Hue Lightbulbs in the house!) and I wanted to protect the system from that, and also have a single mains cable going to the system.

But my thinking has moved on, and I’m thinking less is more…

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Sound advice. And £500 is for what sort of scope? …is it just a case of a sparky coming out and adding a new breaker and a spur? …I’ve always had visions of dedicated mains meaning digging holes in the garden for new Earth spikes etc!

Appreciate you’re probably not an electrician - and I’ve just drained my entire knowledge on the subject in that first sentence, but £500 sounds like not much work and materials and rather trivial… So that’s a positive!

It certainly could be. Get the basics sorted and then experiment to see if you still need the ISOL-8.

Lots of threads on dedicated mains. Here’s a couple to get you started…

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I’m just suggesting the sort of price - mine cost £200 many years ago. Basically, split the meter tails with a Henley Block, add a new small consumer unit and run a 10mm2 cable to an unswitched socket. Take the Earth directly back to the meter cupboard, do not daisy chain off the existing CU. Easy as that. You can do an Earth spike but it needs to be kept moist to work properly and it’s probably not necessary.

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Possibly. It depends on the existing incoming supply earth arrangements and a few other considerations to ensure safety and compliance to the latest regulations. The electrician will advise appropriately when they assess the existing electrical system as they will be the one to sign off the final installation.

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I have a dedicated line, but it didn’t change the sound for me , or maybe subtle improvement.
However I live in a little flat and we have not many components on the main, even not a dish washing machine. A little fridge.
But the high quality powerblock and specially the power cable going into the wall from it made a real and very worthwhile improvement.

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The French (Euro) house wiring system is based on ‘radial circuits’ for power outlets.
A ‘dedicated’ power line as we discuss on this forum is such a radial circuit.
It might be that your ‘dedicated line’ has just adding another but same/similar circuit & any changes it might bring are not so obvious as is the case with a dedicated line in UK installations.

The standard UK system is different & is a ‘ring circuit’. This system was adopted after WW-II to address the considerable demand for new houses & associated building material shortage. A ring circuit wiring offered a more efficient & lower cost system which would safely support a greater number of sockets.

Unfortunately, the standard has not been changed, & nowadays with houses having so many more power sockets (outlets) & with so many more connected electrical devices, I suspect one reason why a UK dedicated line might sound better than the house ring circuits.
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Super detail here - thanks.

This is certainly the assumption I’ve made. A significant number of the sockets in our house - which is probably above average sized - have USB sockets built in, and I’ve surmised that can’t be a good thing when it comes mains purity!

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You are absolutely right HH. During dry Summer spells it needs a hose trickling away for a while to moisten the surrounding soil. I forgot my hose the other week was on it running for half a day, but I have to say the effort was worth it- system sounded great after doing it tbh. ( the audible effect also somewhat shows that the separate spur actually works). ATB Peter

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…and we wonder why people think we are a bunch of cranks :joy::joy:

“What are you doing Peter?”

“I’m watering the Earth spike because the stereo imaging on my system is a bit off”

“Ok Peter…”

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Doesn’t the musicworks box use a ring circuit for everything except the earth which is star wired (but not with equal lengths). The sockets are therefore not all equal and the plug order still matters, though maybe not as much as it does with a linear block and it’s not the same order.

So Source First, Pre, Power?

Or the most power hungry first?

I don’t have one (yet) so I can’t comment if the MusicWorks sockets are numbered to support this…

Yeah, what’s their problem eh?!? :crazy_face::joy:

I haven’t heard the G4 box, but only have the G3 very slightly laterally wired, but last time I published details re this I got shut out of the sky very quickly :worried: better keep my mouth shut this time. Should you wish info feel free to contact me via RD.
I’m at stage with my system, where I have to say nothing is going to change, but in your case it might be interesting to yourself try the G3 vs G4 in your own system. But as everybody have suggested do your dedicated mains first! ATB Peter

My plug in is 500-S1-analogue 555- empty socket and then the digital 555. Works best for me :+1:t3: Best Peter

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Super useful - thanks Peter

So I’d likely be 500, 552PS, Analogue 555, (then in a few weeks Solstice PS), Gap, Gap, 555 Digital

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I can’t answer on the order on a musicworks. I took a G2 ultra home but preferred my home brew linear block, and never revisited.

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Hi Yeti, I would agree that the G2 wasn’t all that in comparison to the G3 and possibly G4. ATB Peter