Of course that isn’t all lost, as it’s 200w Watts of heat in your living room, so most of the year, it is effectively saving your boiler (a tiny weeny bit perhaps 
)
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I checked with my dealer and he said to leave the pre-amp on all the time but you could turn the 250 off. I did this for a year or so but then I blew a fuse. I had replaced a fuse before so I did this but then it blew again and then it blew four more times and yes I was using the right fuses. It went back to Naim and it came back saying nothing had been wrong! I now have a 300 but I am too nervous to turn it off. Apart from the time away if the same thing happened it would cost a lot if out of the guarantee period. So I would rather pay for a bit extra electricity!!
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I think also that the separates range was all designed with the mindset of it being powered up 24x7
I thought that’s in the server room at work, so might require aircon. But at home with the stereo it’s correct in winter at least 
According to my new power meter my Naim system consumes 51w, .051KwH. My current cost per KwH is 35p, so if my sums are correct (KwH x .35 x 24 x 7 x 52) that equates to roughly £155 per year. I think I can swallow that given the peril involved in switching it on and off daily.
When the BluSound Node is connected and the system playing it hovers around the 80watt mark, 2.8p per hour.
And with an OLED tv on and feeding the amp it jumps to 160watts, 5.6p per hour.
I took the opportunity to test a few other devices. My kettle is 2990watts! My Mill oil radiators, although rated at 2Kw are hovering around the 950watt area. I have a 2Kw convection heater which stays true at 1995watts with my Dyson fan sucking 1.5Kw (51p per hour).
Is that figure correct, as I thought even the capped rate is abut 22-24p per KWh, or have you fixed recently.
Hi, most of the responses are about cost of the electricity of leaving things on and now negligible it is, which is true. As has been said as Naim owners we are likely to be able to cope with that cost.
I’d like to bring in another consideration - wasting energy.
I appreciate the amount is small, but then multiply it by the hundreds of thousands or even millions of people currently leaving their amps on, then the amount becomes significant.
As has been mentioned above, the 250 can be switched on a hour or so before used with little/no loss of sound quality. That’s what I do, and even when I don’t, my 250DR still sounds good from cold, it’s just a slightly different presentation to the music, which is entertaining at the very least and even enlightening at times when different instruments become just little bit more forward in the mix.
I’d say that if the fuses in a 250 keep blowing due to repeatedly switching, there’s something else wrong, either in the 250 or in the electricity supply route. I’ve been switching mine on and off for well over 20 years, from chrome bumper to currently both pre and post DR 250s without any problems. However, I fully accept that the slightest differences in electricity supply routes can result in issues in some homes.
Having said all that, I do leave my preamp on all the time - it takes hours to sound good to my ears - it just sounds too rough from cold. That’s been true for all three of the Naim preamps I’ve owned over the years (33,102 and now 282).
Best wishes Amer
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This thread like a couple of others is good in that people are starting to think about energy consumption, and what that does in terms of cost and environmental impact. Knowing the detail then gives us option on how to respond, e.g. power off at night, or perhaps look at other ways to offset the financial/environmental energy cost of leaving it on.
Personally my Solar panels generate 3 times my annual usage, but I do still consider reducing car journeys, and looking at other ways to improve my environmental impact.
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In winter the Naim units release their ‘waste’ energy as heat into your room. So really you can ignore six months of the year as it’s really useful heat. Halves the annual bill and reduces guilt for those that suffer.
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on top of what you wrote, European legislation (for EC customers of NAIM) ENFORCES consumer electronic devices to be lower then 3 or 12 Watt (networked devices) in standby , see Off mode, standby and networked standby | European Commission.
e.g. the fact that set top boxes or televisions adhere to this rule since 2017, allowes an energy saving of a single nucliar plant in the UK; so not quite neglectable. If the device is well engineered it should easily withstand 20 x 365 power cycles …
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I could imagine most paying out more for a yearly insurance for the kit than the cost of powering it.
Do you think the fuses blowing was caused by all the switching off and on?
Don’t know if this will help you but I have a Nap 300DR I turn it off after every use, I have never blown a fuse.
Fuse in the amp or in the plug or in the fuse box / consumer unit?
So a consensus appears to be emerging that power amps can be switched off without significant loss of SQ but preamp is better left on.
Has anyone done the same experimentation with sources? Streamers in particular.
Anything with a DAC usually needs to be kept warmed up. When I worked for a dealer, power amps off at night. Preamps and DACs always on. Pwer amps could be demo ready with a couple hours warmup but a powered off CD player or DAC needed 1-2 days. Naim or not.
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Thanks my 300 will be going off from tonight
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Listening habits play a huge role here. As does hifi design. No one with a class A amp is going to even leave it on in the day when not listening let alone at night.
On the other hand, anyone with a frantic lifestyle with only unplanned spontaneous listening sessions, is probably going to benefit more from an AB class amp and an always on policy. For example, if I had to wait an hour for something to come on song, I’d never be able to listen to music. The opportinity would have come and gone in that time.
Hifi needs to be chosen for it’s compatibility with your lifestyle (as we all know) and that includes its recommended readiness state.
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Hi JimDog I am not sure. The amp blew a fuse a couple of years earlier and then was OK until it blew several fuses one after another. Occasionally the fusebox would trip a fuse so I am not sure what was causing the problem. My dealer didn’t think it could be my circuits/fusebox. After it came back from Naim it was ok and then replaced by the 300. Sorry I can’t be more help.
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Hi I am sure that that is the normal situation. I believe I may have been unlucky and as I have replied to JimDog my fusebox could be the guilty party. If my experience was more common there would be more threads on this issue.