I’m giving everything a once over - ordered a new lamp for the power switch and a better Bulgin plug for the mains lead. I’ve just checked the fuse in the NAP and I need confirmation of its rating.
It’s a “Bulgin” branded antisurge fuse rated at 1A but when I had a chrome bumper 160, the fuse was 3.15A
Is there anyone old enough to know if 1A is the correct size? No label on the back of the amp to specify the rating and although it works, I don’t want it being under stress if it should be a higher value.
Incidentally, the fuse in the mains plug is 3A which coincides with the rated max current of the Bulgin mains connector so maybe all is well.
A modern black 4-pin SNAIC will sound a little bit cleaner. I still use the original grey SNAIC (4-pin latching), but the early interconnect (thin grey cable / 4-pin latching) sounds almost as good to me.
I greatly appreciate the rhythm and timing of these early amps but you’ll be sacrificing other things for the privilege, so maybe they won’t be your cup of tea. They were voiced for a vintage LP12 and Linn speakers, so perhaps they don’t really suit a modern source and ATCs.
I did have a pre-cirkus LP12 and some Mk1 Kans (with the 2-legged Mk1 stands) but when we started the relocation I had a self-inflicted rule that any items I couldn’t put in original (or suitable) packaging for the move had to go.
Yesterday I left the amp running with an iPod as source and it showed signs of gelling better with the ATCs (or my ears). This also allowed me time to make a RCA-DIN adapter so I could connect my newer LP12 and also some 4mm sockets on short leads to allow the Naim SA8 plugs to fit the 160.
Today I’ve been listening to the Wharfedales and spun some vinyl and it is sounding a lot nicer. The brightness has toned down and the apparent missing low end is being bolstered by the ported speakers. The gorgeous vocal presentation remains which is something I don’t think my Nait 50 can match.
As an aside, the 3A fuse in the mains plug blew when I powered up today so I’ve put in a 5A which is holding. The 1A in the back of the 160 is still ok but I’m feeling it should be a 2A as both you and Neil have advised.
Always was going to be a keeper - it’s a piece of history!
The black SNAIC arrived today which has brought improvements, the sound is more focused now and the bottom end does keep getting better - I may try again with the ATCs.
Do you think I should, I mean get a service agent to fit locking Preh DIN sockets? A bit concerned if one drops out as the weight of the cable is pulling on the connectors.
If you unscrew collar as far back as it can go, and push in as far as you can go, wobbly snaics are fine just don’t move anything once in place and powered up, be careful when dusting or cleaning around it,
I believe the latching DINs Naim used were made by Deltron, not Preh. They can still be bought - perhaps it would be easier to have a cable made up with them than to change the sockets on the amp?
The sockets aren’t even suitable for latching ones (I tried) and yet a lot of photos online show early NAC 12 with Preh sockets so it may be a common modification.
It’s generally considered best to back the plug out of the socket a very small amount after fully inserting it in order to mechanically decouple it.
Obviously you need to consider the risk of damage doing anything other than locking it given that a SNAIC carrying power is involved, and the consequences of accidental removal are not good.
