Yes he removed some lighting and went into the loft to try to get an idea. The existing wiring into the sockets runs under the hardwood floor and that would be the only way to replace it because of some other obstacles.
But IF another route can be found the old cable could simply be disconnected and abandoned, or kept as a spare circuit for something else- no need whatsoever to rip it out.
Yes youāre right. Iām really scratching my head but havenāt come up with anything yet. Even to run the new wiring into the socket I will have to remove a very expensive wallpaper. Iām scratching my head right now. Must come up with a way to do this cost effectively.
You might also replace whatever AC outlet you have with a Furutech or Oyaide
We have this product in Australia, where cables can be run on the surface of a wall, and there are many adapters for right-angle joints and others. It does blend in, and there are power outlets and mounting blocks to suit this ductwork. This may be an option. Below is an example.
Warm regards,
Mitch in Oz.
Please elaborate Iām not following
He is referring to change your current 13amp wall socket for a higher quality one. Furutech is a company that comes up quite a lot on this Forum.
@Gigantor suggestion might be worth considering, or perhaps a version of it. E.g. somehow running the cable around the skirting board, or possibly even taking the skirting board off and replacing it with something that perhaps is taller that you have (to preserve the wall decorating) but with a channel to run a cable behind it. A photo of your room might help here. Apologies if we are all bombarding you with ideas - hope it isnāt bothering you
Ah I see. I already have the Furutech NCF. I believe itās the 1363 Rhodium. I should add that to my profile. Second day and itās sounding even better. Itās difficult to explain. Iāve had component upgrades that changed the sound in a different way. This is like an underlying change that in many ways is more significant than any other. The dynamics POP. More visceral than Iāve ever heard. Lower noise floor and a sweeter sound with more layering.
At this point Iām contemplating a whole new higher quality consumer board with high quality breakers. Schneider is one that has received reccomendation. New 10mm wiring directly to my sockets although electricians tell me this cannot be done as the wiring will be too thick. I know users on the forum have done this so Iāll have to convince the electricians. Only trouble is I have a LOT of work to do to get this done. Removing a fitted wardrobe. Remove hard flooring.
Does anybody have any recommendation for consumer units and breaker brands. MK, Hager, Schneider?
Also can all of them accept 10mm2 cabling?
Iām think about adding a separate consumer unit setup with a radial directly to my double socket.
You can get both dado rail and skirting that are designed to act as cable or pipe ducting, and cables can either be led out, or sockets are available that fit into them. But more chunky than most wooden varieties.
I have an MK CU, however any CU will take 10mm. A Furutech wall āsocketā may not though, so would need checking. I just have an MK wall socket which does take 10mm. Of course you could also consider 6mm cable, which many people have used here, and will give you an uplift on what you have
Mine is MK, and works well. A 32 Amp breaker will have no problem accepting 10mm cable. Itās the sockets that are more difficult. Most standard wall sockets will accept 10mm cable, but of course thatās not normal in a domestic situation where they are used with 2.5mm in most installations, or maybe 4mm. Some electricians might therefore dispute the logic of using 10mm cable in an installation which they personally have to sign off as being safe despite being outside of the manufacturerās design parameters. You may need to look around for a more open minded electrician if youāre getting nowhere.
I am with the electricians. 10mm squared cable is rated at 66 amps here in Oz. I have only 2.5mm to my GPOs (general purpose outlets, power points).
Below is a pick of aluminium duct that can be run as a skirting board, just for your information.
Warm regards,
Mitch in Oz.
Good call. I just checked specification for the socket it specifies 5.5mm2 max so I think the 6mm will squeeze in just about. Bummer really if it could handle the 10mm2 that wouldāve been amazing.
- Specified for wire diameters of 2.8mm or 5.5 Sq.mm/10AWG Max. (set screw)
I wouldnāt let the socket limit the wiring. Get the wiring and then get a socket to fit, otherwise the tail is wagging the dog.
Agreed but having spent so much on the socket I wouldnāt want to dispose of it. The socket itself brings its own sound which is really good. If itās a compromise between a standard socket that accepts 10mm2 or the Furutech NCF with 6mm wire I think the latter may bring a better sound. Thats how good the socket is. Total guess of course.
Check their respective websites. They will state the cable capacities for each socket.
I used Schneider sockets which could take 1 x 10mm2 or 2 x 6mm2.
DGā¦
Itās the old question of whether anything can improve what comes before, or just compromise it less. Iāve never got into fancy sockets, and have the same old Crabtree socket that was fitted about 25 years ago. Naim advised me to get 10mm2 and Iām glad I did. Maybe you could get the sockets on your Furutech drilled out to take 10mm2.
I used 10mm Lapp cable and a thinner Belden cable with one Furutech socket and one other good socket with very good measurements and sonic results:
"The thin Belden cable had a circuit impedance of 0.08 Ohms and the fat Lapp cable measured 0.04 Ohms.
The Earth loop impedance of the Belden radial was 0.07 Ohms, of the Lapp cable was 0.06 Ohms, and the house ring main was 0.41 Ohms."