Rega Aria MK3 to NAP102 Connection

Could someone please tell me the best way to connect a Rega Aria MK3 to my NAC102? What input and any other advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

The Aria uses RCA Phonos, so you could connect using an RCA - DIN5 interconnect or else, if the phono input on the NAC102 is at line level, you could use an RCA - BNC interconnect.

1 Like

Thank you very much for your response Richard. What do you mean by the phono input being at the line level? Without any phono boards installed?

As standard on the NAC102, Input 1 Phono on BNCs is at line level (like the DIN inputs). It could have phono cards fitted but this also necessitated the move of some soldered links on the main board. So if your NAC102 has never had Phono cards fitted before, it’s likely that the BNC Phono input is still at line level.

1 Like

Thank you. My 102 has always had phono boards in it. It had MM boards for many years and this year I switched to the Ania Pro (MC) cart and tried both 522 and 523 boards but was still getting noise. I just switched the boards myself and did nothing else to the 102, no soldering etc. - did something else have to be done to the 102 to switch to MC? What soldering would need to be done to put the phobo inpute at line level?

Other than the noise the sound seems very good. You helped me with this a few months ago but I could never resolve it. I was hoping to resolve it without additional expense but an external phono stage or sending 102 in for service seem to be my only alternatives. What do you think. Thanks in advance.

No it always had phono boards. I bought it new from a dealer in Manhattan NY USA and I ordered and it came came with boards installed. Could these soldering points be the source of my issues? What exactly should I look for inside? Sorry for all the questions but I deperately want to fix this one way or another. Thank you again.

If your 102 has always had Phono boards, then thats fine. Either 522 or 523 boards will simply slot in - and should work. There is nothing to look for.

What do you mean by ‘noise’…?

Its like a scratching noise. I recorded it - can I upload it here or pm it to you? Its very short. Thanks,

@Richard.Dane - Could this suggest that the links were not cut…?

Could do, although it usually sounds like a sort of motor boating. Scratching could be some kind of RF?

I’ve always had the tt connected to the bnc plugs. Would it still play if the links were not cut? Perhaps I’ve had both the bnc and din inputs connected to the input 1 phono all of these years and I’m only hearing it now due to the mc cart and boards. Is that what you mean? I think you might be right. Its unlikely two sets of boards have an issue, the tt is clear on another system and the noise is only on phono. How can I visually check for the condition you describe? I now remeber I bought from innovative audio NYC and they were a brand new dealer at the time.

I’m going to open it up and post some pics. Please standby.

There are some little links on the input 1 DIN input - if using the DIN the links should be set to DIN, if using BNC for input 1 then set to BNC. If you need to reset the links you’ll need to desolder and then re-solder the links.

Where do you mean? How does this look? Its input 1.

Now that I look at it - it appears right - correct? Does something else need to be cut or soldered?

Here is a link to the noise that I hear. Its without playing anything and volume at about half.

What do you guys make of it? Aliens? Thanks again for all you help.

They don’t look the cleanest of jobs, could a scratching noise indicate a dry joint?

No - job was terrible. I didn’t do it but I think I was the first system they sold and the guy was young. Should I add a drop to each one? It will at least clean it up and improve the signal - no?

Whats a dry joint?

When the solder doesn’t wet one or both parts it’s intended to join before setting. Either the part didn’t get hot enough or the flux didn’t do its job.

If you can get hold of a solder sucker

remove the old solder and redo the joints.
Perhaps @Richard.Dane can advise which solder to use.

Failing that just try remelting it until it pools and see if it wets the link this time but I don’t hold out much hope and in any case the iron will transfer heat better if it is itself wetted with fresh solder so you still need the type. It will be lead based given the age.

Just at each BNC point on top of the board - not underneath - correct? Whats in the pic.