Mathew, that’s a fabulous informative post - many thanks for taking the time to reply in such detail.
Firstly, hope you are well after being involved in the accident. Quite sobering how these things can happen due to human error. I didn’t know that liability insurance was available for cyclists. I’ll follow the link.
I have most associated cycling kit, helmet, clothes, SPD shoes, second set of pedals etc, so luckily the budget does not have to cover these items, although my Cannondale SPD shoes are getting a little tired.
I think i’m leaning towards an enduro bike of some sort and then will probably experiment with wider tyres. Very good advice about discs becoming the norm. Every time I switch from MTB to my road bike its alarming how poor side pull rim brakes are in comparison, despite keeping the cables lubed with GT85 and cleaning the rims every few weeks with isopropyl alcohol.
I’m not sure how far I will go with road riding, as I don’t think I’ll expand to long distance group rides. My original brief was to keep things simple and update the old roadie bike for something (a lot) more up to date and entertaining to ride.
The cycle to work scheme would be the ideal solution and several friends have taken advantage of the scheme, but as I’m self employed and work from home I don’t think there’s any way I would qualify!
The shops will not want to keep old stock. So discounts can be had for 30% from original price. The more unusual your frame size then a better bargain can be had. The new season bikes will probably have a 10% increase. They will change components around or put better wheels on the bike. Shimano will change the groupset every four years but then there is trickle down effect one year at a time from Dura ace, Ultegra to 105. Next year 12speed Shimano Dura Ace, so expect a 2 year process there.No we don’t need 12 speed) The frames themselves go through changes every 4 to 5 years. This year Scott, last year Specialized/Trek/Cervelo again you have these changes trickle down to the cheaper frames. https://cyclingtips.com/2019/06/scott-addict-rc-2020-first-ride-review/
Not sure why they change the colours so regularly, but it’s nice to have more choice if you don’t like that season’s colour scheme. See Cervelo R3 or R5 colour schemes which vary drastically from year to year.
Personally i’ve not brought a new bike for over 12 years. I updated buying a frameset, groupset, wheels and other components separately. But when i go over to disc then I would buy a complete bike. Considering disc due to better stopping power. 1-2 metres in dry 7-9 metres in wet. With cars pulling out without looking then u want the odds in your favour.
Try rim brakes in the wet. Had a car pull out on me last week, manage to stop in time inches to spare. However in wet would of gone flying over the bonnet as it was a downhill section.
For me riding in a group is the essence of cycling. There is that option if you want to take it forward.
Any of those endurance bikes you mention will be a good choice, The more you pay is do with wheels and the groupset. The frame should be same for the price your looking at.
@YetiZone I note that Cannondale is one brand you are interested in. My wife and I have both owned Cannondale CAAD10s for a number of years, which these days have become our winter bikes, although we don’t have mudguards fitted as the frame offers limited space for these. Mine is fitted with an Ultegra group set, my wife’s has 105, which curiously offers smoother operation. I reckon you should be able to pick up a used CAAD10 for your budget, and maybe even the more recent CAAD12 if you only want 105 group set. Bear in mind that the harsh ride characteristic you mention for aluminium frames is considerably reduced in these models through the use of carbon forks. I believe the CAAD12 has broader clearance to accommodate mudguards and should also take a thicker tyre.
BTW For your height I’d guess you’d need a 54cm frame.
Me and my wife are using Scott Sub hybrid bikes. Hers one is 40, with disc brakes. Mine is a normal one model 30. Using the bikes mostly on road but they are OK for some black roads as well. Not recommended for downhill
These bikes are faster than MTBs on asphalt but slower compared to real road bikes.
I find that bike choice is entirely personal and a good fit is essential. If you really know what frame size and geometry suits you, then you might not need advice from a good shop or bike builder.
Bikes can be like hifi and tend to be better when you spend more time (and perhaps money) finding the right one for your needs.
I have a dozen bikes and regularly ride only four of them. Most of the others are taken out once or twice in the summer to justify owning them.
I cycle to work on an old and indestructible Gudereit most days of the week (only a short commute on bike paths) and do most other mileage on an old single-speed cyclocross bike with a steel frame. Both bikes fit me perfectly like old gloves and are just a pleasure to ride.
Be realistic about what you need for your terrain and get advice from a good shop or bike builder. Good bikes do not have to be expensive, but they should be a good fit to avoid aches and pains and to give you the pleasure to use them as often as possible.
Using a bike instead of a car has many benefits: it keeps you fit, helps the environment and frees up money to invest in more music.
Yeah, carbon frame and electronic shifting. A thoroughly modern bike. It’s essentially the same bike that Sagan, Oss and the rest of the Bora Hansgrohe team are riding. Mine’s the Sagan signature model.
The Ti gravel bike is going great. Went to Dirty Kanza again (320km gravel race). Hard day, but that’s the point and a great experience. Time was 14:05 which almost exactly matched last year’s time.
Agree with the first two, but not the last. Back when I did a regular 40 mile per day commute I kept a spreadsheet and logged every cycling related incoming & outgoing cost. By the end of the year I was about £100 up after 5000+ miles, enough to buy not much in a hifi shop.
Cycle for fun & fitness, not to save money. Once you start to love it it’s as much of a money pit as audio is.
Yeah, it was great. My standard after-work loop was over the suspension bridge, drop down then back up to back of the airport, back down and country lanes out to Clevedon, then along the coast to Portishead, then wind my way back up to the bridge by way of the quiet back-roads. It was a great ride.
Pleasing to read there are so many two wheel fans and bike collectors on the forum!
Thanks for the suggestions and comments folks - all very helpful. I hoped to get over to the largest cycle superstore in the area (Evans Cycles) over the weekend, but did just not get the chance due to attending the Cranage show (very good esp the Neats). I hope to pop over this week.
@winkyincanada. That is a lovely bike! Congratulations on the purchase.
@anon4489532 I’ll take a look at the Felt. A brand I know little about, but will look them up. Hope you are fully recovered after you (awful) accident.
@Leggit. Twelve bikes - wow. I thought I was doing well with one road and one MTB! That must be some collection - pictures?
Even though I anticipated hunting down a used carbon bike, since the original post I’ve been looking more closely at the advances in steel as a frame material and it seems Reynolds etc have not been standing still. There are interesting new frame builders out there creating some rather lovely bikes. Options for bespoke spec / features an interesting possibility. I quite like the idea of a bike that is tailored for use and fit and this had not even occurred to me initially. After just a week or two of research it appears i’m just scratching the surface of possibilities and need to take my time over this to decide what’s best for intended riding. I thought it was going to be easy.
I’ve also been reading about issues about bottom bracket durability for some manufacturers employing specifically the ‘press fit’ units as opposed to the older threaded items, causing severe creaking and even coming loose. Anyone have experience of this?
