Show us your turntable

Very nice!

I’m fairly sure when I checked alignment after using the little plastic Technics thing, it was close enough I didn’t adjust further.

Solid decks aren’t they? 8)

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The colour of music.

Cheers,

Ian

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Great looking TT. I had an SL100c (cheapo version) till earlier this year - looked very similar.

Couldn’t resist the lure of a strobed 1210GR2 though!

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I can see why you’re having doubts about the alignment, I would probably have the same if I’d used it. But @gthack says it’s quite accurate.

The reason I don’t is that the standard alignment is Steveson, which is optimised for distortion on the inside of the record. This is mostly useful for classical records, which I rarely listen to.

I like and us the Schön alignment.

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I’ve been thinking about a tradein for the 1300g since it came out. The only thing they should have kept though is the cue light. It was really useful.

I find the protractors less useful with removeable headshells because the angle should already be bang on. You just need to get the 52mm headshell overhang right.

I’ve always double checked with the protractor later and it’s never been wrong. You might find another headshell overhang cradle easier to use though. The Denon and AT ones are transparent and have the measurements marked so you can turn it upside down and see the stylus through the plastic.

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I guess the only issue with the technics method is how it works if the cantilever is not straight. My old Lyra Delos was way off in that regard. Never caused an issue when aligning as I always just sighted along the cantilever not the body. Tricky with the technics though.

Also +1 on the lack of a light!

But only if you plan to use Stevenson. You first need to decide which alignment(s) you’re happy with.

I remember super gluing my K5 stylus to the cartridge body. Apparently it was an upgrade at the time and for the price of a K5 (£35 I think) didn’t break the bank. I’m sure there was an uplift in SQ afterwards :man_shrugging:

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He he. Mine had that upgrade from factory.

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…and this is so important. Once the arm geometry (you cannot change this) and the arm pivot to spindle distance is set (fancy moving your arm’s position on the plinth?) there is only ONE set protocol that can be achieved accross the record surface (that is, aligned at BOTH null points).

I’m not sure what you’re saying here. Assuming your headshell has slots like most do, you have the option for multiple alignments. Each will have two null points.

Multiple alignments are possible, but of the 3 standard protocols you will only be able to achieve one of them at the two null points. This is how arm geometry is designed, with its specified spindle to pivot distance.
You can try it for yourself. It’s best that you know which protocol your arm is designed for, set it up and you will find that it works at both points. Then try another protocol, you will find that you cannot set it up to work at both points with any one position in the headshell.
.

There’s more than three protocols even ignoring UniDIN once you factor in IEC, DIN and JIS inner and outer groove radii standards. Also there are arms with a swivelling plate to carries the cartridge, like this one

and a few others that can hit any of them with the right alignment gauge.

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Not sure I agree with that but hey ho. As far as I understand you can use any alignment with any arm providing it physically works with the headshell.

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In my defence, I did say standard protocols. I did forget swivelling headshell implementations though!..at the cost of rigidity though. I’ve always kept to the protocol that the arm was designed to.

Rigidity is an interesting one.
The manual of the Schröder Reference, above, tells you that certain bolts on it are very sensitive to the tension applied, notably the one holding the cartridge plate and the counterweight grub screw. Rather than rely on feel alone I bought a low range torque driver to aid repeatability. The optimum by ear was surprisingly light so I then experimented with cartridge bolt tension on my Aro and Korf with various cartridges. There’s some variation with cartridge but I tend to find lighter tensions preferable, down to 3.5cNm for a Denon 103 and even at that light a setting I can still use a finger lift attached to the cartridge screws without disturbing the alignment. My Transfiguration Proteus is currently on my Aro with the bolts at 5cNm, previously I used to tighten cartridge bolts as much as I dared, though that wasn’t that much with the DV Karats I used to use before the Proteus it was a bit more than that.


The RP3 I bought about 45 years ago is performing better than ever courtesy of a couple of drops of oil and new capacitor, drive belt, bias belt and wiring.

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Can you add the motor upgrade to it? I did that for my ‘87 p3, and was most worthwhile. Also meant that I could then add a Neo and get electronic speed change :grinning:

Love yours with the S arm. Something about that shape that always makes record decks look very cool

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Such a fabulous design - so simple yet so stylish too.

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Hate to say this, and I wouldn’t dream of you responding but it looks a lot better than the newer models

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