Show us your turntable

I rarely listen to vinyl so the restorations were limited to what would get it back to how it was. This deck has served me well over the years and the quality of sound it gives me never ceases to amaze. However, when I play a disc and then stream the same digitally, I prefer the lack of clicks and the increased detail that streaming offers.

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When I was a youth, the dream was to have a Garrard 401 c an SME arm. Linn and Thorens appeared later. Rega was the closest I got

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From Rega P8 to SME Model 10. Nice upgrade on the sound: more silent background and maybe because of that Iā€™m hearing more details. I really like it!

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As @Ryder35 said, thatā€™s not correct. The standard alignment for my deck/arm is Stevenson, but Iā€™ve had my cartridge aligned to Baerwald (using the Dr. Feickert Protractor), and am now using Schƶn.

Nothing to do with swivelling headshells, but it does require slots so the cartridge can be moved forward and/or back. Hereā€™s a picture:

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This is not correct.
If you consider these factors, then it will be easy for you to conceptualise the situation:

The slots in the headshell are to allow different stylus to mounting points toā€¦
Achieve the protocol designed into the armā€¦
The achievment of which relies on the arm pivot to spindle distance being accurately drilled.

So, you might well have the arc traversed in your situation coinciding with a set protocol twice across the record surface, but this total arc will not be the same across the whole of the surface. Dealers do not usually need to worry about this when the TT and arm are from the same manufacturer and they use the manufacturerā€™s selected protocol, a standard one or not. For this they use the manufacturerā€™s supplied protractor. Outside of all of these circumstances combined, you will be using a one-off alignment. Dealers do not usually appreciate all of this, it only comes into play when the combination of manufacturerā€™s TT+arm+protractor is not used.
FWIIW, Iā€™ve had difficulty explaining this since the 1980s, but not had to do it often!

Iā€™ve had the AVID Acutus Dark Iron in for review recently and took some pics of it. I really do like the design and the suspension engineering is superb!

Itā€™s moving on though and making way for the Linn Sondek LP12 Klimax which is coming in later today. Thatā€™s rather exciting because as a teen in the late 1980ā€™s I coveted the Linn LP12 like few others and dreamed of owning one - a dream I didnā€™t manage to make come true as I was also in love with the GyroDec and in the end jumped that way! Itā€™s going to be both a pleasure and a privilege to have the legend here thoughā€¦

Meanwhile my GyroDec is my resident turntable and that always puts up a pretty darned convincing defence against the competitionā€¦

This pic was taken before the Lyra Kleos SL came on board but itā€™s a nice pic so here it isā€¦

Iā€™m in the process of working my way through a series of the truly great turntables and itā€™s proving such a joy. So far Iā€™ve covered the GyroDec or rather its history and development, then the SME Model 60 (the best turntable I have ever heard), the Rega P10, the Vertere MG-1, the AVID Acutus and shortly the LP12. For the next project Iā€™m lining up something really special though, which if it comes off will be a fascinating insight into one of the most exciting and revolutionary vinyl spinners ever madeā€¦

I just took delivery of a new Blue Note record of Kenny Burrellā€™s Midnight Blue (what a stunning album). Recorded in 1963 and pressed to a format created in 1948, replayed on a turntable designed in 1981, tracking with an arm launched in 1987. I was using a diamond cartridge which can only be hand built by two people in the world at Lyra. I sat there listening to the jaw dropping clarity, dynamics and transparency and found myself thinking that thereā€™s very little I have ever heard on digital that comes anywhere even close to thisā€¦

Analogue at its best is simply magnificentā€¦

JonathanG

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The PTP Lenco on the right is something of a test bed, the Artemis provides a reference point, or did until it started playing up. Currently Iā€™m re-oiling the motor bearings and I have my old Townshend back in use and Iā€™ve transferred the Aro to it. Iā€™m awaiting the return of my rewired Schrƶder to go on the Lenco next.

Three arms, three decks and half a dozen cartridges does tend to draw me into changing things around now and then but Iā€™ll eventually settle on a stable combination, though whether that will be one, two or three arms in regular use I donā€™t know yet, one will likely be mono though.

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Allowed to ask, which cable you let the reference rewire with? Is it with Frank?

Frank has just finished the rewire and given it a couple of days on his cable burner but though we had a few exchanges about cables and my biasses about them I left it to him to decide which to use once Iā€™d given him the system context. He hasnā€™t told me which yet and I havenā€™t asked.

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Great service from Frank to let the cable burn in already. I rewired my some years ago on his recommendation as well. Really very happy with the arm all around. I bought myNo2, 12 years ago on a 2nd occasion. Now the heavy XV1s is mounted since two month ago. Was wondering, if these two would play well together, but seem to enjoy the journey.

God luck with the return of this beauty.

When I first got the Reference I ran it with my Transfiguration Proteus. When that started to give a bit more sibilance I bought an SPU Royal N to use (with the heavier brass mounting plate) while I tried to get it rebuilt, by this time Transfiguration was no more. The idea of the SPU was to get something so different that I wouldnā€™t keep comparing it unfavourably to the Proteus as happened with my 17D3. It worked, maybe a bit too well, as I found I preferred the SPU, it did take a bit of experimentation with the tightness of certain screws on the arm to get the combination to play rock music and it still civilised Metallica a bit too much but it played Sabbath well and itā€™s way with classical music was very addictive.
I got the Proteus rebuilt by Ana Mighty Sound in Paris and on the back of my enjoyment of the SPU with its Replicant 100 stylus went for a Gyger S on the proteus and I think I prefer it to the original Ogura PA, though the cartridge suspension was changed too. Thatā€™s now playing on my Aro on the Rock and seems to be at home there.

I plan to mount the Schrƶder on the Lenco with the Royal N when it gets back and run it in parallel with the Rock/Aro/Proteus for a while.

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atb, Tom

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Yeti
Did you modify your own 75 or did you get someone to do it ?.
Iā€™m looking into a new plinth for mine but canā€™t really decide on what to do .

I bought one that had been badly modified to use a Rega arm but it fell apart in the tender care of DHL. Fortunately the platter was removed for transport, though the original plinth didnā€™t make it intact. It sat untouched for around 20 years before I got round to it.

I went for PTP6 plates, an idler arm hold back and as the original bearing was a bit sloppy a PTP bearing too. The motor turned out to be quite quiet once I relubricated it and centred the coils following a guide on Lenco Heaven and the idler wheel was in good condition. The plinth is bamboo and Corian boards which I ordered cut to size, the cutout for the motor and bearing I did to the template from PTP using a combination of a drill, jigsaw and hole saws. The jigsaw cuts are all out of sight so itā€™s not on show that I didnā€™t get them very straight. I used loose (sanded down) dowels to locate the layers and silly putty as a non permanent joining agent as it flows slowly but should be rigid at audio frequencies. The finish is a couple of coats of Shellac with light sanding between coats.

The lid is for a Pro-Ject X-tension 10 and was relatively expensive but well made, though I regret that I didnā€™t order the larger size for the X-tension 12 and boards to match it as it would make two arms easier to fit.

I do plan to make a two arm version and can just about get them under the current lid if I reorient the plates 90 degrees counter clockwise and modify the bearing plate to remove the manual speed control or order PTP5 one. Iā€™ve already bought more boards to do this and a Longdog Audio ps for electronic speed control which Iā€™m already using. The Korf with its curved tube can then fit at the back and either the Aro or Schrƶder in the conventional position. I should be able to make a better job of the cutouts the second time around.

Yeti
Many thanks for your response much appreciated thank you .