It’s a really fun project – but you should also think about your objective function: is it all about the final product, or is the journey itself part of the joy? I decided the journey was part of it (inspired by the HIFI AF blog to some degree). Also, I was realistic upfront that this wouldn’t necessarily be a path to a cheaper great table, but because I was learning along the way and getting to know every single bolt, belt, etc. in the table found value in that.
To the comment that said “start with reading” - 100% agree. Pete Swaim of Cymbiosis has developed some wonderful PDFs on setting up an LP12 that I had printed and bound as a physical reference. The above mentioned HIFI AF blog is fun too. I also went very unorthodox and my ‘jig’ was two chairs, secured on a table. Not for faint of heart
At the end of the day though, have confidence: with a touch of persistence, attention to detail, and curiosity, ANYONE can make an LP12 sound great. The mythos that the dealer is the only one who can achieve a good setup or good pistonic bounce is nonsense (but I recognize this may be a bit of a Martin Luther comment against the Catholic church, pre-emptive apologies).
And you have a ton of options when you look at 3rd party providers of subchassis, tonearms, top plates, etc… so liberating yourself from the dealer network ends up being both empowering, as well as fun in thinking through your build options.
Of course, just one man’s opinion and I also respect someone who’d only ever own a dealer setup LP12 – horses for courses.
An MG-1 would partner beautifully with a SN3, as would a well set up Linn LP12, a Roksan Xerxes, NAS Hyperspace, Michell Orbe, Rega P10 or other turntable of that calibre.
If you are lucky enough to be able to audition any of these wonderful turntables, I recommend doing so, then you can select the one that you prefer. They are all very good, especially with a well matched tonearm, cartridge & phono stage.
Which turntables are you able to audition (if any) where you live?
Hi @ARCHIE67
I also finally got to listen to my Hegel properly last night and it’s a real beast of an amp built like a tank and just as heavy the build quality is up there with Naim IMO but the little remote that is made from a nice heavy chunk of solid metal is superior.
I’ve yet to try the DAC or streaming side of this amp as I have my own connected to the analogue inputs but at some point will buy a long optical lead and connect my TV up. Anyway down to the sound it is a dream with these speakers and does what an amp should gets a proper grip on them so the bass is never bloated and the other frequencies are as they should be dead flat.
You asked how it compares with Naim so with these speakers and in this room it is better than either the 282/SC/300 or my favourite Naim amp the 82/SC/250 especially when played loud but and it’s quite a big but it’s an unfair comparison because all of the Naim amps I tried with these speakers where always slightly compromised due to the room interaction and the fact the speakers are a bit big for this room so the Naim where hobbled a bit because they just didn’t have the power and that’s my fault no doubt I could have continued my long search for a speaker well matched to Naim and my room but I knew that given the right amp these speakers would shine properly.
So and I know it’s not very helpful but if you have a speaker that is a bit difficult and because of the room interaction isn’t performing at it’s best then I can recommend the Hegel H190 over any Naim amp below a 282/300 but only if you are set on those speakers because no doubt there is a speaker that will give your Naim a fair fight with this amp.
Now to the P8 clearly better in every way to the P6 but I need to add a spacer to get the VTA right and then properly align this cartridge before I make further comments.
As opposed to a lump of MDF, plastic or in the case of the LP12 an empty box! I know you’re only leg pulling and you haven’t even handled one yet because without the platter it’s as light as a feather which is quite strange coming from the type of decks I’ve owned before, it’s the only deck I’ve had that can be picked up with one hand.
I use that same IKEA unit but with smoked glass doors but modified it so I could put my AV bits inside it by removing the back panel so the cables could be routed out the back. Problem is the panel is designed to keep the unit stiff so I screwed wood braces across the compartments to keep it from sagging. It’s a good looking unit with the smoked glass on top. A custom made unit was going to be 7 times the price at least!
Ran a P9/Atheta for 10 years but had always wanted an LP12 after my first demo 30 years ago but I only had money for an Axis/K9.
Finally got round to buying one Christmas 2019. Deck bought used but a fairly recent one. Since had a service, Karousel and a used set of RCA/DIN Hi-Line phono leads fitted. I was lucky with those as they popped up as the deck was at the dealers for a few weeks due the lockdowns.
The work done has really made a difference, that new bearing is so quiet and phono leads are letting more information through than standard Linn Black phonos. A real bargain for what it cost.
Again, I would emphasise the need for a reading (research and learning) phase. Which can be part of the fun too. Lots of resources out there, once you start to look for them…
That makes sense. When I got my P8 I just plonked it on the Fraim and that was that. It took a day or two to get used to its looks after a more standard deck but I think it looks lovely.
It will be interesting to hear what difference the spacer makes. I had mine fitted when I bought the deck. Some say it’s important and others say it makes no difference as the change in angle at the stylus is so small. But to me, as the 2M is about 4mm taller than the Ania, it just made sense.
As I recall when fitting a 2mm spacer to the P3 I used to have and also using the Ortofon 2M Black there wasn’t much in it, if anything. But it gave me peace of mind and was better aesthetically, so worth it in any event.
Be careful here. I tried a variety of mats against the white felt one on my RP10. In my opinion the Rega white mat was overall the preferred choice. Weirdest was the Herbie’s Mat which, while looking cool and finding some nice extra deep bass, just pulled everything apart in a way that was most disconcerting. It was like listening to a very different kind of turntable, and not one I particularly enjoyed.
Static cling is really only an issue with some brand new LPs straight out of the sleeve. It certainly doesn’t affect older LPs or any that have been run thorough the RCM and re-sleeved in anti-static inners.
this is my TT. originally was a rega planar 2 dated 1990. some time ago, due to unsatisfactory look i start the design of a slate plynth. the the result went beyond expectations.
Spot on. I eventually fitted an Origin Live mat to both my P3 and my P8 - very thin, has little affect in the sound of the TT I can hear and zero static from it.
Rega have spoken a lot about the mat (which is wool) being specifically tested and made for their decks, not just chosen to be cheap.
