Beautiful router work there.
Hi James
Yes they are the DB3 loudspeakers. Dave asked me to produce the original loudspeaker which he designed and then launched through Hi Fi News and Record Review. They were very favourably recieved by the reviewer critic whose name escapes me.
Cheers, Steve
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I concur with you Mike-B on using thick pieces of solid wood rather that thin veneer on angled faces. I used solid Maple on the leading edges of the bottom half of the loudspeaker which made it easier to plane and get the exact angle/bevel. More robust too. The other reason being that as the front was made up of alternate layers of Birch Faced Plywood and MDF it would over time cause a rippling effect under the veneer. The top part of the loudspeaker I covered using some leather stretched over the composite board.
Cheers, Steve
Can I ask what glue do you use with the paper backed veneers
Hi Col. I use this glue. It is just a high quality PVA.
It’s about twice the price of most other PVA’s in the store but well worth it.
I have to cut the driver holes with a Stanley knife freehand! Pain in the…. But there is really no other option. Flush trim bits do not go shallow enough. Slow going but this maple is very strong and has a nice tight grain so it cuts very well with a sharp blade.
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I have found you can slip too easily with a blade, even a craft knife, so use a knife to remove veneer leaving last few mm, then using some p80 glued to an mdf off cut work veneer back. You can glue it to a dowl or off cut of broom handle for the speaker cut outs.
Project is great by-the-way, thanks for sharing👍
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Cheers Steve 
What a great thread this is ! I’m a Hi-Fi enthusiast but know little about speaker design, and even less about wood work and cabinet skills.
In a world with so much negativity in the press, this thread is just so wholesome. Hope they sound as good as they look…
Cheers, Paul
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Yes you have to do whatever works for you. I suppose we develop our own techniques over time. I use a Stanley with just the tip locked out and rotate with the curve of the driver hole bit by bit till I get 1mm or so left and as you say, sand back with paper wrapped around a curved piece of mdf like from a port hole cut out.
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Cheers for the comments Paul. I am really glad many people are enjoying the build process. I actually assumed there would be negative comments on my techniques etc but everyone has been positive. If it helps someone gain the confidence to have a go well that’s great.
I’m sure some of my techniques and methods aren’t perfect but it gets the job done and I know I can achieve a good result.
It’s good for people to see what is involved.
A rectangular box is so much more simple!
With a tilt on 3 sides and the facets and step on the front baffle I was a little nervous about sharing, but I seem to have been able to problem solve along the way and figure it out.
I will add that I am not a qualified tradesman.
I previously started my own business making concrete bench tops as my own business from my workshop/garage and this taught me to problem solve and research. Creating templates and then ending up with a perfect fitting bench top made from scratch was not a simple task! I used all the latest tech in concrete with a fibre reinforced mix allowing tops as thin as 10mm.
Now I have taken a sharp turn and am just finishing a degree in nursing science and would like to work in the ED.
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Veneering these faceted sections is a little tedious. It is lucky that I can clamp through the driver holes.
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It is looking very nice
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What you need now HH is a pair of SL2s in maple to match the Fraim!
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Hi Mark
My first post on the forum which I have just joined mainly due to this thread. Having built 5 sets of much simpler design speakers myself I just wanted to say not only is the quality of your work excellent but I’m amazed at the speed you are building them. Looking forward to seeing them finished and it will be very interesting to know how they sound. I am thinking of building some Troels Gravesen Discovery 861 for my next project. Regarding trimming the veneer around the driver holes. I use a Trend Economy flush and trim cutter which doesn’t have a bearing on the bottom just a 3mm guide, as its only trimming off a small amount mine has lasted all 5 builds although without a bearing you have to take your time. Good luck with the rest of the build.
Cheers Mark
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We are a friendly bunch - this is an amazing thread.
I have copied a friend in, who is recovering from heart surgery - as a keen woodworker and a former engineer _ I am sure he will enjoy it
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Hi Mark, welcome to the forum. Thanks for the comments. Yes I think one thing that can’t be seen from the pictures is the time invested.
Good to hear you have thought about a pair of discovery 861’s. I’m sure they would be great if you decided to build and extremely good value for money. If you have the space I would recommend one of his larger designs like the fusion or the faital speakers. The big bass drivers just do something really special. They don’t go particularly deep, it’s not about that. It’s the way they are so authoritative over everything up to the point of crossover. An effortless undistorted bass and then smooth clear midrange. So easy to listen to. It makes a kick drum sound like a real kick drum.
Cheers for the advice on the router bit. I thought you could get something like that as I had seen one on an American YouTube video I just couldn’t find one locally.
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Thanks Mark
I seem to spend as much time cleaning up the garage as I do building, espicially after using the router!
I have just had to move out of my normal listening room as I have to replace the floor, the speakers I was using don’t suit the new room I’m using even though its about the same size. I was looking at the 861 as I have built a similar design with the base port underneath. I will try and include a photo in this post but not sure how that works at the moment
Cheers Mark
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Wow! Lovely veneers!
Is that a maple? What finish did you use?
HA, didn’t he used to have a pair of those?