Hi, Devil_20, the top surface is concave, so as to reduce slipping, but it doesn’t need any extra pressure to be applied. The lower surface is flat. They are directional with the logo facing to the front, information supplied. Dimensions are 44 x 24 mm, capacity 2.75kg each.
More info on the Gear4Music website.
Hope this is helpful,
Geoff.
FWIW. They will make speakers wobbly though and change the sound character somewhat but might suite your taste. I prefer are more stable solution/coupling and sold the pucks after a short period.
I used SolidSteel patafix on my SS6 top plates to SCM11
It wrecked the SS top plate after one night !
SolidSteel were brilliant though as they sent me new top plates FOC with this message
“From the image you provided, we can see that the top plate you currently have is the painted version. Please note that a few months ago we introduced a new material: the top plate is now coated with a melamine layer combined with PVC. The melamine surface—the one in contact with the Patafix—is significantly more resistant than paint and better suited to this type of use.
However, we will provide you with a complimentary replacement of the top plates using the new generation material.”
Yes, I’ll have a look at G4M. For what they cost I may as well buy some and give them a go. I can always find a use for them under my CD player or something if they don’t suit.
Did that stuff ruin your speaker finish too? I’m not sure who produced my stands because they were purpose built for the speakers so I don’t want to damage the top plates. Is there something particular about the top plates on the SS6 stands?
The only smaller stand mount speakers I had were Linn Kan’s Tukan’s and 109s they were on upward spiked top plates and sat very well and sturdy.
I understand the reluctance to spike the speaker bottoms but this was great for repositioning identically after a spring clean or fettle.
And great decoupling to a smaller point of contact. 
Perhaps I should add that I made adapter plates for the top of my stands out of 6mm aluminium.
The stand top plat are smaller than the speaker bases.
I’ve got some of the same as @Aren that I recently deployed and very good.
I use Moongel damper pads, they work really well but might not be quite secure enough if that’s important. Big plus, they are vey cheap.
What stands are you using. You might notice from my profile that, like yourself, I also have a pair of SCM11’s too. I currently have them on Partington Dreadnoughts but they are just plonked on there but in a place they aren’t likely to get toppled off the stands. The top plates are a bit small for them I think and I should probably do the same and extend them with a plate like you have. How did you attach the plates to the stands? Looking at them it might be an idea to swap the stands over between the 2 sets of speakers but currently the top plates on the Totem stands are exactly the same size as the speaker bases. The super dreadnought’s top plates are a bit smaller but would be OK with the Totems. I suppose it’s worth swapping them round to see what the audible difference is.
Devil_20 I owned a pair of Dreadnoughts some years ago and used them for my LS 3/5a’s, lovely stands
I found that the CD 104 stands @ approximately 620mm high (about the same as Dreadnoughts) was just a bit too tall for the 19’s but I’m sure they would be perfect for the 11’s
As noted by others, if knocking from a pet or child isn’t really a concern, then upward facing spikes that ever so slightly bite into the base of the speaker have always been my preference. Others worry about the holes but as they are on the base, who cares.
But you pick the solution for circumstances and risk factor.
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