@liatpoh76
Agreed! Herbie’s products are effective and great value.
AV Room Service are a much thicker, more expensive and I don’t think they slide around.
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Similarly, another endorsement for Isoacoustics Gaia as they did improve on the spikes below the speaker stands in my system. I understand the Gaias and Oreas are not an option for you. It may be a wise choice to leave it as is if the system does not sound terribly off.
Just a note. Based on my limited experience, I suspect there are more ineffective isolation products in the market usually cheap, than the effective ones usually more expensive. Unfortunately, the effective isolators which bring noticeable or significant gains are usually expensive. The Townshend products are said to outperform most cheaper options which include the Isoacoustics equivalent. There are people who took measurements and simulation in REW. The measured distortion of some of the products (taken from another forum) as follows;
4.72% average with spikes.
4.64% average with Isoacoustics Orea.
4.28% average with Isoacoustics Gaia.
3.86% average with Nobsound 2-3mm space.
2.42% average with the Townshend Podiums.
2.11% with the Credo.
The message I am trying to convey here is to do it properly if seeking a worthwhile improvement. Otherwise, just stay put to avoid disappointment ie. not finding any audible difference with most of the cheap or ineffective isolators.
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Maybe this doesn’t help for peace of mind @anon33182107 but…
I’ve browsed pictures of the Forte IIIs. From what I’ve found, it looks like the feet are shallow metal coin-like sliders on the corners? If they stand on these thin ‘coins’, on a carpeted suspended wooden floor, I would also think there is room for substantial improvement. As it is, they seem to be neither coupled (spikes) or decoupled via isolation. Typically not a recipe for best performance imo.
The underside of the speakers doesn’t look very suitable for puck-type isolators like Gaias. If it was me, I would save up for Townsend bars. Installing them under the speakers is only a one time exercise. I imagine the supplying dealer is willing to help here too. It’s like a 10-15 minute job.
If (…) repositioning is needed, you can put something like 4 pieces from a plastic bag under the feet to slide them around over the carpet and remove when done. This shouldn’t be too difficult.
Nothing specific. I suppose it’s just that I know the speakers are not well isolated from the floor and therefore I have the feeling that isolating them should bring about improvements. Of course things don’t always follow and I could be wrong.
Many thanks to all for your suggestions and comments.
Bang on here. Yes the Townsend bars would be ideal I feel, and perhaps not too difficult to install as they are very low. But ouch! that price!
Yes I agree. Probably I’ll leave it for the moment as I really don’t want to spend another £1000+ on the hi-fi.
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What about placing the speaker on a granite slab which in turn was on some isoacoustic pucks? Or just some washing machine feet.
James, yes I considered this but again it’s the problem of getting them up onto the slabs without causing damage to either them or myself.
They actually are attached to wooden plinths (see a picture online if you can be bothered) and I’m starting to be inclined to the view that these are built-in stands of sorts and so an integral part of the design/performance. No doubt these provide a degree of floor decoupling and perhaps adding anything extra may actually detract from this. I notice that in nearly all on-line pictures they are not resting on anything extra.
Finite elemente cerabases have inserts for the speakers bases. The replace the cones.
I use them under my speakers, on suspended wood floor, with great results.
The Stereophile review has reference to decoupling the Forte III, specifically not to couple them to the floor, BXI pads mentioned which can be found on Amazon at £17.99 for two (not quite sure what use two are, but perhaps that gives you a choice of three or four under a pair of speakers).
Accepting there is still a problem in getting them under the speakers, this is a cheaper option. Even cheaper if you want to experiment, go to a pound shop and buy cork sanding blocks?
Wrong pic I think! These are the Forte IIIs:
To the OP, this info from the Stereophile review may be of interest:
As I played different recordings, I kept thinking the low end should be better defined, given the woofer’s high cutoff frequency. The Forte III’s thin footers practically embedded themselves into the floor, so I slid four 2" by 2" by 7/8" Anti Vibration Isolation Pads (ribbed rubber with cork center, Amazon $6.99/4) under each cabinet. General focus improved, as did low-end definition.
They look very similar. The point is the short stands under them.
Ah, I see, you were showing the stands that appear to have been used as a replacement for the original base/plinth. On the fave of it the OP would struggle to lift onto the stands - however if they are screwed to the bottom of the speaker in place of the original base, rather than the speaker simply resting on top, that could be achieved by lying the speaker on its side, changing the base for the stand, then lifting back up, never having to take the full weight. They could then be ‘walked’ into position, which is how I move my (heavier) speakers.
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For what it is worth these are Heritage Speakers not Focals or what ever they traditionaly are connected to the floor the way you bought them. They are also voiced exactly as they are. Any thing you put under them will certainly alter the sound but iwould say it wont be long before you revert to stock. A Plinth if sitting on carpet underlay is actually a good support for a big speaker of this type.
That applies to every speaker, modern or heritage. Many owners of classic ‘BBC-school’ type speakers like Graham, Spendor Classic, Harbeth etc. use isolation devices with great results.
Interesting…Just looked at those. Trying to move my Kudos Titan 606’s are a nightmare. Especially as I’m nearly 70!
How do you adjust them? With spikes, you can rotate them to your chosen height.
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There is no adjustment, you would need to adjust the spikes screws to get them even. It’s a very simple product, but incredibly effective at dissipating vibrations. It is the only product that I enthusiastically recommend, as my experience with it has been positive beyond expectations. Their 60 days trial policy is quite good, if they don’t work for you just put them on an envelope and send them back with a copy of the receipt, no need for RMA.
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Thanks agin everyone for some fascinating replies / insights.
This is what I am beginning to think. Obviously most speakers are either designed to be used on stands or if floor standers they usually have provision for spikes or decoupling feet of some sort. The Klipsch Forte III’s are mounted on their own wooden plinths that hove no provision for spikes or feet of any sort.
The message I am getting is that this is how they were intended to be used and how they were voiced. Adding anything else beneath them will perhaps be going against the design principles and alter the specific voicing. Similar in a way to Naim IBL’s, SBL’s and DBL’s which all had built-in support systems. One wonders what the effect of replacing the spikes on these with some sort decoupling feet such as Isoacoustics or Townsend would have. My gut feeling is that this would possibly improve some aspects of the sound but would rob them of their specific character - so that in effect one would now be listening to a very different speaker. I suspect the same may apply to my Klipsch speakers. Leave well alone I think.
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This is never the case as your speakers were not voiced in your room, not with your kit and not on a carpeted suspended wooden floor.
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A question may be whether the manufacturer designed them to sit on carpet or hard floors. If the latter unless both floor and speaker base are perfectly flat there could be some wobbling, which is one of the ills that spikes or other adjustable feet can correct (as also can wedges, blobs of ‘blu-tac’ etc). More significant may be whether the floor is truly solid, or somewhat ‘bouncy’ as are most suspended floors, and that is where decoupling or coupling to the floor may prove beneficial or otherwise…