Stacking Banana Plugs for Rel Sub Addition?

I’ve read all the subwoofer posts and didn’t quite find what I was looking for - I’m wondering what might be the best connection option for adding a Rel sub to my Epos 14’s (amps are 82/250)? I know I want to use the High Level connection at the speaker end so what would be better - put Furutech FP-202 stacking bananas (not yet purchased) on the end of my NACA5 and plug the Rel lead into them or crimp together the NACA5 & Rel wires at the speaker end into a high quality banana’s (already have)? Or some other solution? I know there is a special Naim/Rel cable but don’t want to use it - it’s too expensive.

How about spade connectors?

I’m having some cables made up for my twin subs - both connected at speaker end - and opted for spades so I can have the speakers connected with the current banana plug, and simply unwind the terminals slightly to connect the spades too.

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The Epos-14 speaker terminals don’t accept spades. If they did I would certainly go that route. Does anyone make a high quality speaker terminal extender that simply adds the ability to use spades?

If you can’t use spades with your speakers, I would try to find some banana plugs with reasonably generous solder buckets. Then you can solder both speaker cable and sub cable into the same plugs and eliminate the need for an extra connection you would get with stackable plugs.

Cardas has a funny banana that also takes a spade. I used these once but my speakers accept both banana and spade simultaneously so I use spades for my two REL subs.

My old Cardas bananas.

What I use now… Speaker terminals are WBT universal (spade and banana)

I do the same as @JosquinDesPrez as well. Prefer not to stack banana plugs especially if cables are heavy.

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Those Cardas guys seem to have it all covered, they also do a spade to banana adapter which I was trying to track down recently, for an entirely different purpose.

For the OPs purposes I don’t think this would be a problem, the second set of cables need only be very thin and light. Still, I wouldn’t be too keen on stackable bananas, even though they would work.

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I often wonder why don’t all manufacturer put the speaker posts of floor standing loudspeakers close to the bottom like @JosquinDesPrez’s?! Looks so much more tidy and no unsightly cable behind and no chance of covering rear firing port if there’s one. Weight also won’t be a problem with stacking as well if they are close to the floor.

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Use the Furutech they are reasonably priced and very good quality and the are also locking. That’s what I used when I had my Naim SN2.

You could also use WBT NexGen bananas which I’ve also used and are the best, but are very expensive and require a specific crimping tool.

Better still, put them underneath and the cables can be completely invisible :slightly_smiling_face:

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Binding posts under the speaker is a big PITA Thiel did this and trust me it required two people one to tip and hold the speaker and someone to connect the cables. As for putting the binding posts low. That has a lot to do with crossover location inside the speaker.

If your speakers are that heavy, yes, I can see it would be a bit awkward. Fortunately mine are reasonably small and light so underneath is good.

Then how am I going to switch easily between the many speakers and amps at will? Like the Magico M2 that is 75kg a piece while running super lumina cables in between.

Well, that’s just a dream… a nice dream…

Better still,…unless your speakers are 60" tall and weigh 90 lbs, like mine are. They are top heavy and need that plinth for stability. As mentioned already if the connectors were underneath my speakers, forcing me to tilt them for access, that would be risky and a huge PITA: I would need a second person to help any time I wanted to manage the connection.

Exactly! Why couldn’t the cross over move close to the bottom? Lets say it is transmission line speaker design and that affects the passage, I am sure a cable can run from the crossover to the binding post so it can be close to the floor. If there’s a will, there is a way!

Thanks for the tips guys. My Rel S/3 should be here mid week. Hopefully without damage. Not exactly light at 71 ibs. I have some Mogami W2921 and a Nutrik Speakon connector coming as well. Will try and get the NACA5 + 2.5mm Mogami into my bananas but may have to purchase new ones. I almost went for an acoustic platform too but might be ok as is. I’ve got carpet over cement.

My old Royd Apex are a transmission line design, and the crossover sits on the underside of the cabinet, just a few mm above the floor. I thought it was a neat way to keep them out of the cabinet.

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In my speakers the crossover is in the plinth, if I recall it correctly.

If using two subs what happens with the ground wire that is connected when only using one sub?