I’m leaning towards upgrading to an Naim streamer (ND5 XS2 or NDX2) and Supernait 3 to go with an existing pair of Harbeth Monitor 30.1. I’m interested in adding a single subwoofer to this combination. I’m curious if anyone here has a similar Naim set-up. If so any recommendations?
In my opinion REL is the top choice. How big is your room and what’s your budget?
@opus , It’s a funny shaped room. 8 feet wide in places, 10 feet wide in others. About 18 feet long but it opens in two places into the rest of the floor and is not a self contained room. I’m not 100% sure on budget. I want something that can grow with my system (I’m eyeing a SN2 or 3 and NDX2 in future). Right now I’m using a Unitilite. The goal is something musical and a good match for the Harbeth. I’ve hear lots of good things about REL.
I also have a difficult room. 15ft wide about 19ft long but back is open to foyer another 10ft, and towards the front left opening to formal dining room. Really great bass is helped by having a closed room. That said I’ve used the smaller REL T7/i and recently got a REL S/510. The S/510 isn’t cheap but it is just Killer and a real keeper, couple of recent reviews… google is your friend
@opus Thanks so much for the suggestion. Do you have a single sub or stereo pair? I don’t want to go down this path with a single sub if it will make the system sound worse, but my wife would never green light two giant cubes
Again, I really appreciate the advice. Do you use the high-level input on the REL and how do you do that if you have a naim amp given the lack of binding posts for the high level cable.
I use a single S/510. I don’t have a Naim amp anymore, but when I did I used the Naim recommended method of tapping off the speaker terminals so as not to upset my SN2 My current Aestheix Mimas has no such limitations except it has to be grounded to the chassis. And yes High Level input.
If I were to find a way to attach both the speaker wires and the REL high level sub wire to a banana plug, wired as they would recommend for binding posts, would that work, or is there another Naim-specific reason not to try this, if I go the REL route?
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I’m curious if anyone here has a similar Naim set-up. If so any recommendations?[/quote]
We’ve had results using Naim electronics with JL Audio subs. In fact we recently had on a NDX 2 > SN3/HiCap DR > AE500 > Fathom f112 v2 to great effect.
Btw, and fwiw I am currently using Uniti Nova > curved SCM11 > Gotham g213 v2.
With a Naim amp you would generally connect the sub high level cable to the speaker input sockets rather than the amp outputs. I believe Harbeth use dual purpose terminals that can take bananas or spades, so you can use the bananas for your main speaker cables and spades for the sub.
It’s a Naim thing. Has to do with the amp’s output stage. I’m sure someone else can explain it better. My understanding is the new Naim amps don’t have any issues like the older ones. Furutech makes a banana plug, the FP 202 that allows exactly what you’re talking about. I have a set and used them for exactly that.
They are Bi-Wire terminals. Not dual purpose. I’ve hooked up REL Subs both ways. No difference. In sound or operation.
I run a single sub of the sub output on a Nova and it works very well. You can do the same with a SN2/3.
As far as I’m aware the 30.1 has a single pair of terminals, not biwire.
@ChrisSU you are correct. They have single standard binding posts. I had SHL5’s and they had a Bi-Wire setup. And to the OP, they are typically called 5 Way Binding Posts, or just Binding posts. I can’t think of another audio company that uses those non-standard Naim banana holes.
One thing you should think about with a subwoofer is how picky you are about how that sub will be integrated. Do you only ever listen in the sweet spot? My subwoofer purchase was great for cinema but i never could cope with how it integrated with stereo music. Especially when not sitting in between the speakers. Sounded awful from the kitchen. Eventually ended up selling it. But That’s my experience and I am very picky about the coherence of the whole soundstage sounding right.
One thing I forgot to add is that 2x subs would probably solve those issues. Maybe start with one with the potential of another later. If I ever did it again I would definitely go for two smaller high quality ones rather than one big expensive one.
Hi. I have just added a rel tzero v2 to my system (small room, not ‘square/rectangular). It’s connected to the speakers; be aware it has to be connected to both; extra ‘wires’ across the floor.
They do take a lot of time to get in the right place & get the settings correct for the system/room, & my settings are nothing like the suggested ones that rel use, I believe its been said before: set so that you can barely hear it. Once you’ve got it right it is wonderful, but be prepared to feel a bit of frustration until you do get it right.
Worthwhile noting T series has single low level input unlike S series which has L & R low level inputs. That said REL recommends high level inputs anyway and hooking up at speaker end so amp doesn’t “see” the sub/s. I love REL and run a pair of T as a result but also have a single with another system.
Admittedly my subs are not best placed because of WAF factor albeit they are relatively small esp compared with such as svs. Still, running stereo made it a lot easier to integrate with the room.
I use BK Electronics XLS 200 DF with Graham Audio LS5/9 but no Naim amp. I was very pleased when I got these, recommended on this forum.
Room is L shaped, 11’ 10" by 24’ 7". I know I could improve on positioning, but 90% of the time they do just what I want.
BKE used to make units for REL, so not a poor man’s copy.
I’m using a pair of REL T5i’s attached to the speaker end with the included Speakon cable. I did first try my SN2 sub L/R out to each subs single low level input. I found the Speakon connection better, more gain and bass. Initially, I thought the 5i’s were going to be too small and after a few days breaking in and adjustments, they are just fine in my 15’ x 18’ room. If you want your pictures and windows to vibrate, go bigger.