Torque settings for Ovator S-600


Can somebody be so kind and share torque settings for Ovator S-600, along with some kind of diagram? I was able to find some of the torque values on the forum, but I need to make sure that I’m doing the right thing.

Also, I would appreciate recommendations for a torque screwdriver…


I am sure @Richard.Dane can email them to you.

I’ve messaged you.

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Might a list of the torque settings make an faq entry?

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The various torque settings for the Ovators are many and while I’d like to post the document on the forum, Naim are uncomfortable having such a technical R&D doc available to anyone, hence why I make available to owners by request only.

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Thanks, guys! I really appreciate your help!

Hi Richard ,would you be good enough to forward them to me also.Im away to convert to active and it would be a great opportunity to check everything is to spec whilst im in the base removing the xover.

Hi Richard, me too please.


I use a Gedore torque driver - seems to do the job with my S600 and now S800. :bear:


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Thanks Darkebear! I’ll check the availability in Canada.

One more silly question… I assume that I have to remove the cosmetic plate to get to the BMR screws…

The mesh grill you carefully prise-off - it has a ‘direction’ so remember that alignment and put it back like that.

The BMR driver itself - don’t touch it at all is my advice!
Any wrong torque here - especially if too tight - will make it ‘shout’ and it will be unpleasent.

The six bolts at the outer surround you carefully torque-set - release then each very slightly then re-torque to correct setting. I found they sounded best a tiny bit below the specified setting.
For example on my driver the setting at 1.97nM was obviously better than the recommended 2nM, whereas 1.94 was not tight enough.

Do them clockwise in sequence around in a circle (not side-to-side).
Instruction says side to side - but that IMO is for when the speaker is first assembled to seat the gasgets evenly. Once you have the assembled speaker that has been done so I found by experiment doing all of the drivers in a loop around the circle of their fittings to correct torque worked best.

I tried side to side across - no harm either way it wont damage anything if you set to correct torque or just below it - and it was obvious doing them in a loop sound best. I think it may slightly distort the driver housing least as you work your war around - in any case, just for information what I did.
Doing these by hand without a torque driver will ensure they are all incorrect and you can hear it - I have known people ruin their speaker SQ doing that - but just re-doing carefully to the correct setting and it all comes back.
Treat the speaker like a musical instrument needing careful set-up to sing and you can achieve amazing results.

The rear assembly behind the speaker - do set those bolts correct or they can either sound dull (if loose) or shout (if too tight). Again I found a little below the specified torque sounded best.

Bass drivers the same approach.


Thanks, Darkebear! This is really valuable information!

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