Tracking force dial reads low on Linn Ittok LVII

Hi,

Yesterday evening I used my simple plastic Goldring scale device to measure the tracking force on my AT-OC9ML/II cartridge. I set the scales at 1.5g as per Audio Technica recommended figure.

The dial on the arm had to be turned up to 1.6g (from 1.5) to make the scales balance. (The bias was left unchanged at 1.5)

I then checked the arm was still parallel with the playing surface.

This 0.1g change has made a big difference to the sound of records, which now have more heft and drive. It might help you if you have an LVII too.

Chris

I checked my LVII a while back and 2.0g matches the dialed in force. My cart is a Dyna 10x5.

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Or maybe the Goldring scale is reading high?

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Or maybe the counterweight is too far back.

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If I remember my weighing scale calibration correctly in order to ā€˜accuratelyā€™ display 0.1 g the read out should be to 2 decimal places. 0.01g.

It is quite feasible that your scale could be measuring anything in the range 1.50-1.59g BUT still showing 1.5g

The dial on my Ekos SE is .2 grams off, which makes it effectively useless. For the last few years Iā€™ve been using one of those ultra-cheap OEM gauges, and have gotten good results. They can be a bit flaky, possibly because theyā€™re sensitive to room temperature. I find it works better if you turn it on, put it on the platter, and leave it for a few minutes to settle. Even then, I need to take several measurements, just to be sure. Itā€™s also essential that you use a calibration weight every time you use it, and adjust the reading accordingly.

A while back I got fed up with this flakiness, and searched around for something better than the el cheapo gauge that didnā€™t cost hundreds of dollars. I eventually bought a Riverstone model from the river (about $30), and itā€™s well worth the modest extra cost.

One other thing Iā€™ve tried which seems to bring a small improvement on spring-loaded arms such as the Ekos. Instead of starting off with the dial at zero and positioning the counterweight to get the arm dead level, I just set the dial at the desired tracking force (1.75 grams for the Kandid), and use the counterweight to set the actual tracking force.

Conventional wisdom is that you should fine tune tracking force by ear, but it seems to one of those things Iā€™m not very sensitive to. There have been times in the past where Iā€™ve gone months with the tracking force one or two tenths of a gram off, and I never noticed anything amiss.

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I have never relied on the armā€™s gaugeā€¦I balance the arm, set VTF by the armā€™s gauge and then correct using a cheapo but consistent digital guage. Seems to work for me.

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Try again with the bias zeroed.

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Sorry, I wasnā€™t clear. I did the measuring with the bias at zero. Then I reset the bias at an unchanged figure of 1.5. Only the tracking force was changed. From 1.5 to 1.6g.

The tracking force that results from the dial setting always depends on the arm balance that was initially set with the dial at 0. Even if the arm seems ā€œin balanceā€ initially and even if the dial worked perfectly accurately, it is easy to be slightly higher or lower.
If in doubt, use a scale

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Start from the recommended VTF by whatever scale is most repeatable then adjust it by ear to what you consider optimum, record the setting. Chances are the next cartridge wonā€™t sound its best at exactly the same VTF anyway.

In the light of comments Iā€™ve looked again carefully at the balance of my arm when tracking force is set at 0g.

Having got the arm parallel with the recordā€™s surface, I then set 1.5g for tracking force on the armā€™s dial. The Goldring scales now balance at 1.5. Finally I set the bias at 1.5.

The arm looks right, tracking force dial reads right, and the music sounds great. Thank you all.

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So it looks like I was right:smile:

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